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| ==Sheet metal work (complete)==
| | This page contains a list of items that need to be done to complete work on the new [[Brew Hut]]. |
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| ==Paint / weatherproof and final coat (medium priority)==
| | Return to [[Brew Hut Rebuild]] |
| * Paint window and door frames, one more coat needed.
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| There's about 5 liters of the white/blue/yellow/lingerie that we have been using on the walls. This is probably enough to do everything upstairs and downstairs a second coat. (What about the window trim? See below)
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| There is an unused 8 inch roller up there. It will be challenging to remove the dead roller from the cage; a sturdy sharp knife might be used or it might be sawed off.
| | The contents of this page have been moved to [[Hut Maintenance#Brew_Hut_Maintenance _Log]]. |
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| There's about 2 liters of downstairs (industrial) floor paint (concrete colour). This should be enough to do the cracks in the floor liberally (2x?), plus another coat in the high traffic areas. This will work better after the floor has dried a bit more and is swept very clean. We have two, 4 inch rollers up there, which work well for the cracks, and for the coat in the high traffic areas.
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| There's about 3 1/2 liters of pale sand or pale concrete industrial paint which can be used for the outdoors window ledges and window frames, a couple more coats if this looks necessary. Then what is left over could be rolled onto the floor upstairs. This will make the floor colour lighter overall, but this is not a bad thing.
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| Finally there's the sickly yellowish trim paint (about a liter), which can be applied to the window trim boards on the outside, and inside as well, if that's what we want. Or the inside trim boards can be painted same as the walls, to look inconspicuous. This makes the whole thing look bigger. This can may have issues because the lid may not seal properly though I beat on it with a hammer for a while.
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| There's a liter of paint thinner/solvent up there, for whatever purpose.
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| Note that the industrial paint must be applied in a strong wind with the windows open, and the hut vacated for at least 12 hours after, so should be done just before departing for the city. Once applied, the windows do not need to be left open.
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| Anybody intending to finish the painting should bring up an 8 inch roller and a disposable brush. And a rag for dusting.
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| I might bring family/friends up there some time in the next 3 weeks, and I might apply paint before leaving, though don't count on me, and if somebody else wants the job, go for it.
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| ==Downstairs (medium priority)==
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| * Cut plywood pieces to go at top of walls for insulating top of walls. Insulate. Ideas on how to insulate and seal off this cavity are welcome. 2x8 blocking might be painful to cut and install, and there is nothing good to nail plywood onto.
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| * Haul up the bench #1, which is down at the old hut.
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| * Build a permanent ladder to go upstairs. Currently using one of the construction ladders which is ok, but not great.
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| ==Attic walls (complete)==
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| ==Heater & stovepipe (medium priority)==
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| * Point where chimney goes through the roof needs to be insulated and sealed against drafts. There may be issues here with wind blowing water underneath the chimney flashing and into the hole in the roof.
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| * The metal sheet under the stove needs to be secured to the floor. Making a rounded wood moulding to fit around the metal sheet is probably the best option (to avoid catching your booties on the edge). A wooden edge would also nicely delineate an area for drying out boots, and keep water from melted snow at bay. The metal pad is exactly 48 inches by 48 inches.
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| ==Painting, final coat (medium priority)==
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| * see above
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| ==Miscellaneous (low priority)==
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| * Put rocks and/or wire mesh at the side of the Hut to keep wolverines from crawling under it.
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| * The downstairs hinged window needs a restraint to keep it from openning all the way. When this window opens, it hits the trim boards quite close to the hinges. This puts a lot of torque on the edge of the window sash near the hinges, and has already damaged the window sash (repaired). To prevent further damage, a cord or chain should be installed to limit the maximum openning of this window so that it doesn't hit the trim board. Alternatively, the hinges could be moved outward on both the frame and the sash, but doing so risks misaligning the hinges (they are just about perfect as is) and perhaps more importantly weakening the screw holes (by placing new holes right beside them).
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| * Use a razor blade to cut extra caulking and paint off the window panes.
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| * A small front porch or stairs would be nice. We have the wood as there is some pressure treated lumber and deck board up there to concoct some sort of porch and/or stairs leading up to the door. There are also some nice joists in the old hut that would be great for making stairs. Alternatively, these could be made out of stone, but that's a lot of work.
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| * Door ramp - it would be nice to add a small ramp to the door to make it easier to sweep dirt and snow out of the hut.
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| * Woodshed
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| * Coat hooks for hanging jackets, food, packs, etc. They need to be purchased and installed strategically.
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| * Create signs about the brew hut (and how to send us money) and get them laminated. Also need some new maps for the walls (NTS and TRIM), which should also be laminated.
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| * Clean up any building debris, ie MicroBrew, and convert it into firewood.
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This page contains a list of items that need to be done to complete work on the new Brew Hut.
Return to Brew Hut Rebuild
The contents of this page have been moved to Hut Maintenance#Brew_Hut_Maintenance _Log.