Archive:2009 Brian Waddington hut renovations: Difference between revisions

From VOC Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search
← Older edit
VisualWikitext
imported>Roland
imported>George
No edit summary
 
(134 intermediate revisions by 7 users not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
{{main|VOC_hut_maintenance}}
{{main|Hut Maintenance}}


=Projects=
=Progress Report and What Remains to be Done --after Reno-1=


==Add screens==
'''Objectives:'''
*To control the dampness and moldiness.
*To make it warmer. 
*To make it nice. 
*To make it easier to keep clean. 
*To reduce hut deterioration. 
*To minimize environmental impact.


Christian has screens in apartment.
Work is easier and less overwhelming if people coming up to the Hut to work, have an idea what they want to do when up there, and this also makes it easier to ensure that the proper tools and materials are available.  If you see something that you would like to do or finish, please put your name beside it and adopt it as yours.


===Costs===
Most of the incomplete projects listed below, are not lacking in materials or in planning; all we need is personnel with time to do the work.


* $100 screens
* something to attach


===Stuff to buy===


Something to attach them


===Tools===
='''Completed Tasks'''=


Adult size metal hacksaw up there already.  Screwdriver?
== Solar Air Heater & Ventilation ==


==Add curtains==
'''Status:''' Completed.


Somebody could pre-make curtains...
It's installed and working as expected. 
*Paint exterior under device dark colour to make it absorb more sunlight.  '''DONE'''.
*Plug the old five-inch vent hole above the upstairs south window so it doesn't leak air. Probably a piece of plywood nailed over the hole, maybe with some insulation stuffed inside, would do the job. '''DONE''' 


Windows are:
'''Note:''' We should modify the vent at the north end of the hut, so that it cannot be shut off. The vent holes are 5" in diameter.


    * (4) 29 1/2 x 41 1/2
== White Paint & Plywood Walls==
    * (2) 29 1/2 x 31 1/2
    * (1) 25 1/2 x 25 1/2


===Stuff to buy===
'''Status:''' Completed.


Curtains?
*Applied about 8 gallons (32 litres) of Premium Alkyd Low Odour paint in 2-4 coats to to all interior plywood surfaces.  It looks good and it should stop a lot of moisture from soaking into the walls to feed mold.  '''DONE'''
Tea hooks 4x7 = 28


==Double pane the windows==
The smell of paint will become less in a couple of weeks.
Mostly done. Possibly move some outside?


Need a few more clips.  Clips and screws are up there.  Needs caulking.
==Mosquito Screens==


===Notes===
'''Status:''' Completed.


===Costs===
They are partially installed, but unfortunately an essential part was lost preventing the assembling of the final screen.  A ladder is needed for installing the upper screens.  The ladder is up there but it was being used for roofing.  '''DONE'''


$410 more or less
==Curtains==


==Fix the roof==
'''Status:''' Completed.
===Notes===
Sounds like the previous roof fixers didn't think things were too rotted etc., meaning we can probably get away with relatively minimal repairs.


Probably need:
The Curtain Committee has provided curtains to keep in heat at night.  These need to be installed. '''DONE''' The entranceway curtains maybe should be re-installed, (they were taken down for painting) though they make the entranceway cold and a place for condensing of moisture, attracting mold.  The 7 windows are:
*vapour barrier
* (4) 29 1/2 x 41 1/2
*some metal sheeting
* (2) 29 1/2 x 31 1/2 (by stove area)
*expanding foam or similar
* (1) 25 1/2 x 25 1/2 (diamond)
*tar-like substances
*screws
===Costs===
$250


==Kill the mildew==
====Curtain Geekatry====


===Notes===
* That's a total area of 4*(29.5*41.5) + 2*(29.5*31.5) + 25.5*25.5 = 7405.75 in.<sup>2</sup> = 4.78 m<sup>2</sup>
Probably need:
* The Boltzmann constant is 5.67*10<sup>-8</sup> W m<sup>-2</sup> K<sup>-4</sup>.
*bleach (not much since you dilute it a lot) or Behr #62 mildew remover (couple gallons)  
* If we assume a cold, clear, night is 3K for radiative purposes (cosmic background radiation, which has been measured from the ground) -> 5.67*10<sup>-8</sup> W m<sup>-2</sup> K<sup>-4</sup> * 3K<sup>4</sup> = 4.6 * 10<sup>-6</sup> W/m<sup>2</sup> -> 2 *10<sup>-5</sup> W
*rags, rollers etc.
* Or maybe a bit warmer, 200K (-73C) = 90 W/m<sup>2</sup> -> 434 W
* scrub brushes, because the mold needs to be scrubbed off.
* Or a cloudy warm winter night, 263K (-10C) = 271 W/m<sup>2</sup> -> 1297 W
* handle extension for scrubbing difficult places
* Cold hut interior 283K (10C) = 364 W/m<sup>2</sup> -> 1738 W
* dust masks have been recommended when removing mold.
* Ok hut interior 288K (15C) = 390 W/m<sup>2</sup> -> 1865 W
* Warm hut interior 293K (20C) = 418 W/m<sup>2</sup> -> 1997 W
* Hot hut interior 300K (27C) -> 460 W/m<sup>2</sup> -> 2195 W
* 1 W = 3.41 BTU (BTU is often shorthand for BTU/hr, so really 1 W = 3.41 BTU/hr)


===Costs===
==Roof==
$50


==Paint the inside walls==
'''Status:''' Completed.
Maybe use a marine stain (like what they use for wooden boats?) for the beams and off-white mistint all mixed together for everything else? 


Sandra mentioned that if we use a standard film-based paint on wood that may be damp, the paint will likely blister and look like hell. A stain soaks in, so this may be better. An ideal stain should be (1) very light color because it's dark in there (2) contains mildew preventative. (3) strongly water repellent when dry. In order of increasing resistance to mildew, latex < traditional oil based < "industrial" oil based.  Because we heed the above characteristics, we may not be able to use the economical mistint paint which was so successful at Brew. These comments refer mainly to the plywood where most of the mold is seen, but a darker stain would look good on the beams.
The main objective of the roof maintenance was to seal the gaps beneath the main ridge cap. This is done (with foam and tar caulk). This should drastically improve the mildew situation near the roof beams. However the large gap under the ridge cap above the Honeymoon Suite still needs to be covered with sheet metal (already up there). This job will need 2 people on the roof at once and requires the corrugated sheet metal panels be unscrewed and lifted. Probably about a 1/2 days job. It has been suggested to me that this part of the roof doesn't see as much wind, so it's likely that less snow gets under the cap and melts, plus I sealed some of the area under the cap with tar. The sheet metal to do it is up there. '''DONE'''


Personally I really like the look of the wooden beams in the hut.  I think they add a lot to the character and it would be a shame to paint over them.  I believe the mold is on some sort of plywood though, and I'm not so attached to that.[[User:Swebster|Scott Webster]]
==Moving the Outhouse==


===Notes===
'''Status:''' Completed.
Probably need:
*paint or stain
*rollers etc.
===Costs===
I guess it's a pretty big hut and paint is likely expensive if we buy some brand new fancy kind.  Don't know about the relative costs of stain, but it probably isn't so cheap either.
$250?


==Paint the unpainted bench/table==
This is a task where a large crew can be used, and you mostly stand around telling potty jokes.  First, try and find a good site for the new outhouse hole.  This has to be somewhere not too far away from the Hut, and not in the swamp that surrounds the Hut, somewhere that digging is good.  If we can find a good spot (unfortunately you need to dig to find how good the digging is), near the present spot, it should be possible to haul the outhouse over there intact.  If the spot is too far away, it will be necessary to take the outhouse apart and put it back together in the new location.  Finally you cover the old hole.  '''DONE, BUT (1) SMALL HOLE  (2) GROUND WATER.'''  Splash a quick coat of paint on the inside to help use up the remaining paint, '''DONE.'''
===Notes===
Probably need:
*paint
*rollers etc.
* a couple sheets of sandpaper


My kids painted the original table and benches, and they probably used 4 coats of paint.  A gallon of industrial enamel of the mistint variety would be good, and would cost us about $10.  If we want to choose the color, then $70.


===Costs===
I'd like to think we could get some cheap paint for this...
$50


==Move the outhouse==
===Notes===
The outhouse is getting full.  Renovation includes (1) deciding if it is full yet, and if so, (2) looking for a new site that will not drain into the lake but is still close enough to be used, (3) digging a really big hole that will last for years but hopefully not hit water. (4) Carefully taking apart the outhouse and carrying the pieces to the new site (5) Assembling the outhouse (6) We are done, but we should carry out any debris from previous failed outhouse attempts.  None of this should be costly.  Re-painting is probably not a priority.


===Costs===
='''In Progress Tasks'''=


None of the above will require spending money, but we need about 4 people x 1 day.
==Trail around north side of Lake==


===Required Tools===
'''Status:''' OK.
Screwdriver, hammer, dirt digging shovels.
 
We noticed the north side is clear of snow, and there aren't many boulders to get around.  Both Scott Nelson and Veenstra like building bridges, so a bridge across the creek at the lake outlet, and a trail around the north side will probably get built.  '''DONE''', see [[Phelix_Creek_Trail_Construction#August_1-3_2009]] for details.  '''Bridge is functional but could use some nice-to-have touching up.  Trail needs some more markers.'''
 
==Tung Oil & Beams==
 
'''Status:''' OK.
 
All beams, even the difficult ones, have received one coat of oil, and they look really good.  There's two liters of oil up there. To re-coat any thirsty looking beams we need cheap paint brushes, and rags.  These are up there, ready to be used. '''OK'''
 
==Kitchen Cupboards & Countertop==
 
'''Status:''' In Progress.
 
The upper kitchen cupboards were beautifully stained "red oak on maple".  These need a second coat of urethane in a few weeks.  The lower cupboards need to be similarly treated.  The kitchen counters were covered with sheet aluminium.  We may want to caulk under the edges because when spilled soup gets between the aluminium and the maple counter top, it will stay there and further damage the counter top. '''NOT DONE''' We have the stain, the urethane, a small paint brush, rags, caulking.  '''NOT DONE''' 
Cupboard floor painted white after removing dead mouse '''DONE'''
 
==Exterior Trim==
 
'''Status:''' OK.
 
There's a can of oil-based trim stain up there and the trim sure would look better if it was re-stained.  '''Need a wire brush''' to remove the old peeling stain, and some way to reach the high trim boards (ladder). '''OK'''
 
==Paint the smaller benches and table==
 
'''Status:''' In Progress.
 
Another coat of paint (it dries fast) will use up the remaining pink paint.  '''NOT DONE'''
 
==Double Glaze Windows==
 
'''Status:''' In Progress.
 
The plastic to double glaze the windows has been hauled up and installed.  Some windows need more little plastic clips.  They and the screws, are up there.  We could caulk the windows with special caulking, which is up there.  '''NOT DONE'''
 
==Interior Decoration, Signeage, etc==
 
'''Status:''' In Progress.
 
This was all taken down for painting and needs to be put up.  The sign about paying, etc needs to be much better; currently it's written in pencil and partially scratched out.  See the signage at Brew for details.  In general we need fewer and more comprehensive signs.  '''DONE'''  A paragraph describing what to do when leaving, might avoid the unfortunate happening a couple years ago where somebody left the upstairs window open and the upstairs filled with blowing snow.  '''POSSIBLY NOT DONE'''
 
==Porcupine Deterrent==
 
'''Status:''' OK.
 
Scratchy stucco mesh was installed and now no creatures larger than a mouse can get under the Hut.  Some of the plywood skirting has been eaten by porcupines.  To stop this, a huge amount of wire mesh, or stucco mesh, or something, would have to be applied to the skirt going around the Hut.  '''OK'''
 
==Drainage around the Hut==
 
'''Status:''' OK.
 
Some ditching was done to divert the water from the large melting pile of snow behind the Hut.  There are proper drain pipes installed below surface, and they seem to be doing their job of keeping the ground from being soaked, deeper down.  In a couple of weeks the large pile of snow should be gone.  '''OK'''
 
==Garbage Hauling==
 
'''Status:''' In Progress.
 
A lot of accumulated junk was hauled out, including the two old kerosene heaters and a propane heater and tank, big tanks left over from the composting privy, etc.  There's some steel cable still up there; might be good for building a bridge at the lake outlet.  There's some Dexion handy angle that might not be good for anything. 
 
The lead-acid batteries left over from the composting toilet and weighing 63 lbs each, are probably toast as they have been discharged until they read 1.5 volts, whereas they should not normally be discharged below about 11 volts.  While waiting for somebody to carry them out, they are being trickle-charged with spare current from the photovoltaic panel, and on a sunny day probably receive 0.2 ampere hours of charge current.  Whether the charge is retained, is not known.  They should be carried out. Battery acid should be drained into '''some pop bottles'''.  The batteries should be wrapped in '''plastic'''.  Might want to use '''Roland's frame pack''' to carry them out to save getting battery acid all over your Arc'teryx.
 
There's a few other items left over from the days of the composting toilet, which could be carried out, but they aren't nearly as challenging as the batteries.  '''SOME PROGRESS MADE'''
 
There is a large garbage pile near the outlet of the lake that includes a bunch of plastic buckets etc, several tarps, a few 45 gallon drums etc etc.  Origin unknown.  Begin hauling this out.  '''SOME PROGRESS MADE'''
 
 
 
 
='''Not Yet Started Tasks'''=
 
==South Window==
 
'''Status:''' Not started.
 
Really big windows are nice; they let in lots of light.  But really big windows put a lot of strain on the frame and hinges.  The downstairs south window frame is in bad shape.  The window can only be closed using a hammer.  Options include nailing it shut, taking the frame apart and epoxying the cracks and planing it smaller, or changing the whole style so it still opens inwards but swinging "hinged" at the bottom rather than at the side.  They don't even need hinges or hardware; they are held closed with wooden wedges, and they do not get snow buildup.  Both Scott Nelson and Steve Mullen know about windows that open this way.   '''NOT DONE'''


==Refinish the floor==
==Refinish the floor==
===Notes===
 
'''Status:''' Not started.
 
Maybe leave it for next time.


Refinishing the floor is a major task.  Normally you would use a huge power sander to remove the old finish and flatten the floor.  This will be extremely difficult and labour intensive using only hand tools.
Refinishing the floor is a major task.  Normally you would use a huge power sander to remove the old finish and flatten the floor.  This will be extremely difficult and labour intensive using only hand tools.


At least two coats of finish will be needed, with 12 hours or so to dry between coats (for floors, the finish has to dry enough that you can walk on it lightly while applying the next coat).  After completion, there should probably be no heavy use for a week.  No one can be in the hut doing any other work while the floor is drying.  Probably no one will want to sleep inside either.
At least two coats of finish will be needed, with 12 hours or so to dry between coats (for floors, the finish has to dry enough that you can walk on it lightly while applying the next coat).  After completion, there should probably be no heavy use for a week.  No one can be in the hut doing any other work while the floor is drying.  Probably no one will want to sleep inside either. '''NOT DONE'''


Equipment / supplies needed:
Equipment / supplies needed:
Line 123: Line 176:
*Finish
*Finish


===Costs===
Probably costs $150 for finish - urethane or tung oil. Sand paper - $100.  In the case of manual sanding, expensive fancy sandpaper will cut the manual effort by about half.
$150 for finish - urethane or similar.
Sand paper - $100 (in the case of manual sanding, expensive fancy sandpaper will cut the manual effort by about half).


==Add extra rails to honeymoon suite==
==Add railings in various places upstairs, especially to honeymoon suite==
===Notes===
Ideally these would be done well if we do them at all, ie. vaguely matching wood, non-flimsy attachment/construction (otherwise they're probably worse than nothing)
===Costs===
$100


==Increase ventilation==
'''Status:''' Not started.
More vents?  Bigger vents?  Vents in floor to allow (slightly) pre-warmed air to come in from basement?  Something exotic (Nelson and Roland are thinking some exotic thoughts).
===Notes===
Ideally this contraption would not be ultra-ugly.
===Costs===
If we're going to do Roland's idea I would probably vote to do it "right" which might involve spending a little bit more money than the bare minimum.  Unless we wanted to see if it worked at all first and then upgrade it later... $350


==Bridge/Trail around lake==
If we add rails we must do a good job.  They should match the other wood up there and they should be strong, because if some inebriated person leans against them and they break, we will have an injured person to deal with.
===Notes===
'''NOT DONE'''
Probably need:
*gabian cages
*expanded metal for bridge deck
*miscellaneous hardware, bolts etc.
*signage to tell people to stay on the trail
===Costs===
$200


==Haul out accumulated Junk==
===Notes===
We may make several trips from the cars to the Hut bringing in tools, materials, food, beer, etc, so on the way out we might haul some of the accumulated junk.
Some of the things we might consider hauling out if we have enough personnel, include
* empty propane tank
* several empty kerosene cans
* several empty garbage cans modified for composting poop
* the two lead-acid batteries if they are indeed beyond help.
* abandoned spondonicles, dishes, etc
* construction debris if it is known to be useless.
* empty paint tins
* two kerosene heaters
* broken Coleman stoves


===Costs===
If we haul in a couple cans of white gas, this will help with drying out the hut before painting it.  $25
* beer
* food
=Notes=
The vent holes are 5" in diameter.
Other measurements, while I'm looking at this ready-to-be-lost piece of paper:
Windows could be plexiglassed on the inside fairly easily.  Requires:
4x  29.5" x 41.5"
2x  29.5" x 31.5"
1x  25.5" x 25.5"
And some clips around the outside (bathroom mirror style).  Note that
the glass can't much bigger, otherwise it will interfere with the
latches.  Can't be much smaller either.  The plexiglass will be right
on frame/retainer interface (ie - the same size as the glass), so
clips with some length would be good so they are further from the edge
(reduce chance of splitting).  Pre-drill the holes.




='''Miscellaneous'''=


===Hut Dimensions for Painting===
Measured from the inside, accurate enough to figure out how much paint we need:
Measured from the inside, accurate enough to figure out how much paint we need:


Line 220: Line 222:
20x 1.5m
20x 1.5m


===Other thoughts===
*More mallion and chain for lanterns
*Trim for messy paint jobs?
*Paint the ladders?
*Floor appears to be sealed already - should we do it again?
*Outside paint seems to be alright - should we do it again?
*Railing for upstairs traverse to honeymoon suite? (2x1.6m posts, 2x1.6m rails)
*Plexiglass on inside better - glass absorbs UV without turning opaque.
*The "Brian Waddington Hut" wood sign is still only half complete.  A chisel could fix this quickly.
*Vents suck, and only sort-of open.  Maybe a simple tube, pointing down, that cannot be closed, would be good.  Or supply a cap which can be taken on/off - this would be less confusing than the 'rotate 180 degrees and wonder whether it was open or closed to start with' vents we have now.  Plastic probably gathers less condensation than metal.
*Roof doesn't appear to be leaking enough to see it inside anymore, probably could still use some repair.


Other thoughts:
The hut seemed plenty warm with just the two catalytic heaters and 11 people; there were some French people up there too.  The big catalytic is harder to light (you're supposed to use some alcohol-based priming fluid, which we did not have).  Not Brew Hut warm, but I had to unzip my sleeping bag.
More mallion and chain for lanterns
trim for messy paint jobs?
paint the ladders?
floor appears to be sealed already - should we do it again?
outside paint seems to be alright - should we do it again?
railing for upstairs traverse to honeymoon suite? (2x1.6m posts, 2x1.6m rails)
plexiglass on inside better - glass absorbs UV without turning opaque.
The "Brian Waddington Hut" wood sign is still only half complete.  A
chisel could fix this quickly.
Vents suck, and only sort-of open.  Maybe a simple tube, pointing
down, that cannot be closed, would be good.  Or supply a cap which can
be taken on/off - this would be less confusing than the 'rotate 180
degrees and wonder whether it was open or closed to start with' vents
we have now.  Plastic probably gathers less condensation than metal.
Roof doesn't appear to be leaking enough to see it inside anymore,
probably could still use some repair.
 
When deciding how much to do, we need to keep in mind whether is it a
helicopter job or a carry in job.  In my mind (and probably the club's
budget this summer) it is a carry-in job.  We can still make the
required big improvements carry-in style, but maybe won't have enough
man-power to carry enough paint for both inside and outside.  I guess
we'll see.  Probably a good way to do it would be to conscript some
porters for a work weekend and a small number of people to stick
around for a few extra days.
 
Also, the hut seemed plenty warm with just the two catalytic heaters
and 11 people (there were some french people up there too.  The big
catalytic is harder to light (you're supposed to use some
alcohol-based priming fluid, which we did not have).  Not Brew Hut
warm, but I had to unzip my sleeping bag.

Latest revision as of 21:55, 24 September 2016

Main article: Hut Maintenance

Progress Report and What Remains to be Done --after Reno-1

Objectives:

  • To control the dampness and moldiness.
  • To make it warmer.
  • To make it nice.
  • To make it easier to keep clean.
  • To reduce hut deterioration.
  • To minimize environmental impact.

Work is easier and less overwhelming if people coming up to the Hut to work, have an idea what they want to do when up there, and this also makes it easier to ensure that the proper tools and materials are available. If you see something that you would like to do or finish, please put your name beside it and adopt it as yours.

Most of the incomplete projects listed below, are not lacking in materials or in planning; all we need is personnel with time to do the work.



Completed Tasks

Solar Air Heater & Ventilation

Status: Completed.

It's installed and working as expected.

  • Paint exterior under device dark colour to make it absorb more sunlight. DONE.
  • Plug the old five-inch vent hole above the upstairs south window so it doesn't leak air. Probably a piece of plywood nailed over the hole, maybe with some insulation stuffed inside, would do the job. DONE

Note: We should modify the vent at the north end of the hut, so that it cannot be shut off. The vent holes are 5" in diameter.

White Paint & Plywood Walls

Status: Completed.

  • Applied about 8 gallons (32 litres) of Premium Alkyd Low Odour paint in 2-4 coats to to all interior plywood surfaces. It looks good and it should stop a lot of moisture from soaking into the walls to feed mold. DONE

The smell of paint will become less in a couple of weeks.

Mosquito Screens

Status: Completed.

They are partially installed, but unfortunately an essential part was lost preventing the assembling of the final screen. A ladder is needed for installing the upper screens. The ladder is up there but it was being used for roofing. DONE

Curtains

Status: Completed.

The Curtain Committee has provided curtains to keep in heat at night. These need to be installed. DONE The entranceway curtains maybe should be re-installed, (they were taken down for painting) though they make the entranceway cold and a place for condensing of moisture, attracting mold. The 7 windows are:

  • (4) 29 1/2 x 41 1/2
  • (2) 29 1/2 x 31 1/2 (by stove area)
  • (1) 25 1/2 x 25 1/2 (diamond)

Curtain Geekatry

  • That's a total area of 4*(29.5*41.5) + 2*(29.5*31.5) + 25.5*25.5 = 7405.75 in.2 = 4.78 m2
  • The Boltzmann constant is 5.67*10-8 W m-2 K-4.
  • If we assume a cold, clear, night is 3K for radiative purposes (cosmic background radiation, which has been measured from the ground) -> 5.67*10-8 W m-2 K-4 * 3K4 = 4.6 * 10-6 W/m2 -> 2 *10-5 W
  • Or maybe a bit warmer, 200K (-73C) = 90 W/m2 -> 434 W
  • Or a cloudy warm winter night, 263K (-10C) = 271 W/m2 -> 1297 W
  • Cold hut interior 283K (10C) = 364 W/m2 -> 1738 W
  • Ok hut interior 288K (15C) = 390 W/m2 -> 1865 W
  • Warm hut interior 293K (20C) = 418 W/m2 -> 1997 W
  • Hot hut interior 300K (27C) -> 460 W/m2 -> 2195 W
  • 1 W = 3.41 BTU (BTU is often shorthand for BTU/hr, so really 1 W = 3.41 BTU/hr)

Roof

Status: Completed.

The main objective of the roof maintenance was to seal the gaps beneath the main ridge cap. This is done (with foam and tar caulk). This should drastically improve the mildew situation near the roof beams. However the large gap under the ridge cap above the Honeymoon Suite still needs to be covered with sheet metal (already up there). This job will need 2 people on the roof at once and requires the corrugated sheet metal panels be unscrewed and lifted. Probably about a 1/2 days job. It has been suggested to me that this part of the roof doesn't see as much wind, so it's likely that less snow gets under the cap and melts, plus I sealed some of the area under the cap with tar. The sheet metal to do it is up there. DONE

Moving the Outhouse

Status: Completed.

This is a task where a large crew can be used, and you mostly stand around telling potty jokes. First, try and find a good site for the new outhouse hole. This has to be somewhere not too far away from the Hut, and not in the swamp that surrounds the Hut, somewhere that digging is good. If we can find a good spot (unfortunately you need to dig to find how good the digging is), near the present spot, it should be possible to haul the outhouse over there intact. If the spot is too far away, it will be necessary to take the outhouse apart and put it back together in the new location. Finally you cover the old hole. DONE, BUT (1) SMALL HOLE (2) GROUND WATER. Splash a quick coat of paint on the inside to help use up the remaining paint, DONE.



In Progress Tasks

Trail around north side of Lake

Status: OK.

We noticed the north side is clear of snow, and there aren't many boulders to get around. Both Scott Nelson and Veenstra like building bridges, so a bridge across the creek at the lake outlet, and a trail around the north side will probably get built. DONE, see Phelix_Creek_Trail_Construction#August_1-3_2009 for details. Bridge is functional but could use some nice-to-have touching up. Trail needs some more markers.

Tung Oil & Beams

Status: OK.

All beams, even the difficult ones, have received one coat of oil, and they look really good. There's two liters of oil up there. To re-coat any thirsty looking beams we need cheap paint brushes, and rags. These are up there, ready to be used. OK

Kitchen Cupboards & Countertop

Status: In Progress.

The upper kitchen cupboards were beautifully stained "red oak on maple". These need a second coat of urethane in a few weeks. The lower cupboards need to be similarly treated. The kitchen counters were covered with sheet aluminium. We may want to caulk under the edges because when spilled soup gets between the aluminium and the maple counter top, it will stay there and further damage the counter top. NOT DONE We have the stain, the urethane, a small paint brush, rags, caulking. NOT DONE Cupboard floor painted white after removing dead mouse DONE

Exterior Trim

Status: OK.

There's a can of oil-based trim stain up there and the trim sure would look better if it was re-stained. Need a wire brush to remove the old peeling stain, and some way to reach the high trim boards (ladder). OK

Paint the smaller benches and table

Status: In Progress.

Another coat of paint (it dries fast) will use up the remaining pink paint. NOT DONE

Double Glaze Windows

Status: In Progress.

The plastic to double glaze the windows has been hauled up and installed. Some windows need more little plastic clips. They and the screws, are up there. We could caulk the windows with special caulking, which is up there. NOT DONE

Interior Decoration, Signeage, etc

Status: In Progress.

This was all taken down for painting and needs to be put up. The sign about paying, etc needs to be much better; currently it's written in pencil and partially scratched out. See the signage at Brew for details. In general we need fewer and more comprehensive signs. DONE A paragraph describing what to do when leaving, might avoid the unfortunate happening a couple years ago where somebody left the upstairs window open and the upstairs filled with blowing snow. POSSIBLY NOT DONE

Porcupine Deterrent

Status: OK.

Scratchy stucco mesh was installed and now no creatures larger than a mouse can get under the Hut. Some of the plywood skirting has been eaten by porcupines. To stop this, a huge amount of wire mesh, or stucco mesh, or something, would have to be applied to the skirt going around the Hut. OK

Drainage around the Hut

Status: OK.

Some ditching was done to divert the water from the large melting pile of snow behind the Hut. There are proper drain pipes installed below surface, and they seem to be doing their job of keeping the ground from being soaked, deeper down. In a couple of weeks the large pile of snow should be gone. OK

Garbage Hauling

Status: In Progress.

A lot of accumulated junk was hauled out, including the two old kerosene heaters and a propane heater and tank, big tanks left over from the composting privy, etc. There's some steel cable still up there; might be good for building a bridge at the lake outlet. There's some Dexion handy angle that might not be good for anything.

The lead-acid batteries left over from the composting toilet and weighing 63 lbs each, are probably toast as they have been discharged until they read 1.5 volts, whereas they should not normally be discharged below about 11 volts. While waiting for somebody to carry them out, they are being trickle-charged with spare current from the photovoltaic panel, and on a sunny day probably receive 0.2 ampere hours of charge current. Whether the charge is retained, is not known. They should be carried out. Battery acid should be drained into some pop bottles. The batteries should be wrapped in plastic. Might want to use Roland's frame pack to carry them out to save getting battery acid all over your Arc'teryx.

There's a few other items left over from the days of the composting toilet, which could be carried out, but they aren't nearly as challenging as the batteries. SOME PROGRESS MADE

There is a large garbage pile near the outlet of the lake that includes a bunch of plastic buckets etc, several tarps, a few 45 gallon drums etc etc. Origin unknown. Begin hauling this out. SOME PROGRESS MADE



Not Yet Started Tasks

South Window

Status: Not started.

Really big windows are nice; they let in lots of light. But really big windows put a lot of strain on the frame and hinges. The downstairs south window frame is in bad shape. The window can only be closed using a hammer. Options include nailing it shut, taking the frame apart and epoxying the cracks and planing it smaller, or changing the whole style so it still opens inwards but swinging "hinged" at the bottom rather than at the side. They don't even need hinges or hardware; they are held closed with wooden wedges, and they do not get snow buildup. Both Scott Nelson and Steve Mullen know about windows that open this way. NOT DONE

Refinish the floor

Status: Not started.

Maybe leave it for next time.

Refinishing the floor is a major task. Normally you would use a huge power sander to remove the old finish and flatten the floor. This will be extremely difficult and labour intensive using only hand tools.

At least two coats of finish will be needed, with 12 hours or so to dry between coats (for floors, the finish has to dry enough that you can walk on it lightly while applying the next coat). After completion, there should probably be no heavy use for a week. No one can be in the hut doing any other work while the floor is drying. Probably no one will want to sleep inside either. NOT DONE

Equipment / supplies needed:

  • sanding implements - normally power sanders are used for refinishing floors. For a manual approach, several half sheet (or larger) sanding blocks will be needed so multiple people can work at the same time.
  • Dust removal - a vaccum cleaner would be ideal, but it we are less picky we can sweep up the dust.
  • Finish

Probably costs $150 for finish - urethane or tung oil. Sand paper - $100. In the case of manual sanding, expensive fancy sandpaper will cut the manual effort by about half.

Add railings in various places upstairs, especially to honeymoon suite

Status: Not started.

If we add rails we must do a good job. They should match the other wood up there and they should be strong, because if some inebriated person leans against them and they break, we will have an injured person to deal with. NOT DONE



Miscellaneous

Hut Dimensions for Painting

Measured from the inside, accurate enough to figure out how much paint we need:

  • Main Floor:

Length of hut - 7.3m Width of hut - 3.9m Length of vestibule - 1.8m Height above wainscoting - 1.8m Ceiling height - 3m

Beams are 24" around (8" against wall or 6" free standing): 10x 3m 20x 1.2m 20x 3.9m

Unpainted table - 3'x6' 2x Unpainted benches - 1'x5'

  • Loft:

Length of hut - 7.3m Width of hut - 3.9m Length of 'roof/wall' - 3.6m Length of vestibule - 2.2m (yes longer than downstairs - it's not as high and the roof slopes) Length of 'roof/wall' in vestibule - 2.3m

Beams are 24" around 8x 3.6m 20x 1.5m

Other thoughts

  • More mallion and chain for lanterns
  • Trim for messy paint jobs?
  • Paint the ladders?
  • Floor appears to be sealed already - should we do it again?
  • Outside paint seems to be alright - should we do it again?
  • Railing for upstairs traverse to honeymoon suite? (2x1.6m posts, 2x1.6m rails)
  • Plexiglass on inside better - glass absorbs UV without turning opaque.
  • The "Brian Waddington Hut" wood sign is still only half complete. A chisel could fix this quickly.
  • Vents suck, and only sort-of open. Maybe a simple tube, pointing down, that cannot be closed, would be good. Or supply a cap which can be taken on/off - this would be less confusing than the 'rotate 180 degrees and wonder whether it was open or closed to start with' vents we have now. Plastic probably gathers less condensation than metal.
  • Roof doesn't appear to be leaking enough to see it inside anymore, probably could still use some repair.

The hut seemed plenty warm with just the two catalytic heaters and 11 people; there were some French people up there too. The big catalytic is harder to light (you're supposed to use some alcohol-based priming fluid, which we did not have). Not Brew Hut warm, but I had to unzip my sleeping bag.

Retrieved from "https://wiki.ubc-voc.com/index.php?title=Archive:2009_Brian_Waddington_hut_renovations&oldid=35856"