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[[image:Burtonshut-512.JPG]]
{{Hutbox
| Name=Roland Burton Hut
| Photo=Burton_Hut_2024.jpg
| Caption=Burton Hut after the 2024 restoration
| Elevation=1475m
| Coordinates (WGS 84)={{coord|10U|500467|5530792|WGS84|hidedatum}}
| Coordinates (NAD 27)={{coord|10U|500561|5530590|NAD27|hidedatum}}
| NTS Topographic map={{NTS link|092|g|15}}
| VOC Fee=VOC: $15/night
| BCParksFee=$10/night
| Reservations=No
| Locked=No
| Built=1969 (renovated 2006, 2024)
| Caretaker=Varsity Outdoor Club
| Capacity=10-15
| Legal Type=2024 BC Parks PUP
| Legal Status=Pending
| BivouacFeatureID=117}}


==About the Hut==
The '''Roland Burton Hut''', also known as Sphinx Hut, is the VOC's oldest current hut.  It is located in Sphinx Bay, on the east side of [[Garibaldi Lake and Black Tusk|Garibaldi Lake]]. Access is easiest in winter when the Lake is frozen.  In late spring, it seems that the hut occasionally floods with water due to ice jamming the nearby creek where it flows into Garibaldi Lake.
The Burton Hut, also known as Sphinx Hut, is the VOC's oldest current hut.  It is located in Sphinx Bay, on the east side of [[Garibaldi Lake and Black Tusk|Garibaldi Lake]]. Access is easiest in winter when the Lake is frozen.  In late spring, it seems that the hut occaisionally floods with water due to ice jamming the nearby creek where it flows into Garibaldi Lake.


There is a [[lost and found]] page for items in and around the VOC huts, but you could also post under 'current conditions' if you clean up after yourself.
[https://huts.ubc-voc.com/Sphinx/ Burton (Sphinx) Hut on the VOC Huts website]
{{NoCampfires|alignment=center}}


==Facilities==
==History==
{{main|Construction of Burton Hut}}
Try asking Roland ''Burton''.  The hut was built back in 1969 making it the VOC's oldest standing hut.  Roland received the [[Awards#Gold Pin|Gold Pin]] in 1970 for his contribution to building the hut.


The Burton Hut sleeps about 10 people comfortably - 6 on a sleeping platform and 4 in the attic.  It's quite drafty by modern hut standards, so it tends to be colder than usual inside.  There is an outhouse, and a nearby stream (and a huge lake) for water.
For many years, the hut was the site of an annual [[Sphinx Camp|Sphinx Spring Ski Camp]].  This used to be a huge event with dozens of people trekking across the lake around easter to ski in the basin.  There's even an old 8mm movie from the 1962 trip in the clubroom [[list of archives|archives]] about it.


==Skiing==
The Burton Hut has seen relatively low activity over it's lifetime, primarily because it is only easily accessible for only 3 or 4 months every year.  This pattern of relatively low use kept the hut in reasonable shape for many years.


The Burton Hut is an awesome base for fair weather skiing, with amazing long glacier descents all around.  There are few trees however, so it is a poor destination in bad weather or in unstable conditions.  The hut is often used as a stopover on the [[Garibaldi Neve Traverse]].
In August 2006 the Burton hut was renovated with a new door, windows, floor, end walls, insulation and a vapour barier to help keep things warmer in the winter.  The hut furniture was completely rebuilt to provide a large cooking area and a 30 inch wide bench for sitting, sleeping or gear storage.  The old kerosene heater (and all remaining kerosene) were removed and replaced with a white gas catalytic heater.


==Mountaineering==
In November 2024 a large restoration project was undertaken on the hut. Financial support was provided by the ACC Whistler section, the FMCBC, the AMS, and ACC Vancouver section. The original roofing was completely replaced and the hut was re-insulated. Additionally, new gothic arches were installed to reinforce the old supports. New floor joists and floor beams were also installed to correct a sag in the floor. The hut was also mouse-proofed.


There are good nearby climbs on Castle Towers, Sphinx, Deception Pinnacles and Guard Peak. Short, alpine rock routes can also be found on the Phyllis Engine and the Bookworms.
== Fees ==
{{about huts in general}}
{{Garibaldi Park Permit}} <!--''*Note:* Except for Burton Hut, VOC huts have a VOC fee of $10/night. The VOC fee for Burton Hut is $5 so that the total cost of $15 to stay at the Hut is in line with the cost of staying at the Elfin Lakes Hut''-->


==Access==
==Access==
{{main|Burton Hut Centennial Trail}}
Access to the Burton Hut is complicated by the fact that there is no trail for access in summer, and that Garibaldi Lake is so huge that it doesn't usually freeze until sometime in January, for access in winter. For complete details for how to access the Hut, view the [[Burton Hut Centennial Trail]].


Access to the Burton Hut is complicated by the fact that there is no trail, and that Garibaldi Lake is so huge that it doesn't usually freeze until sometime in January.
Burton Hut is within Garibaldi Park and therefore zoned for non-motorized use only. For details see [[Winter Recreation Zoning near VOC Huts]].


'''Winter'''
==Facilities==
The information on this page is just a snapshot. See the [[Hut Inventory]] Page for complete information on tools and materials at the Hut
{{HutFacilities
| Heating=White Gas Catalytic Heater
| Lighting=Solar
| Cooking=White Gas Two Burner [[Coleman Stoves|Coleman Stove]]
| Fire Safety=
| First Aid=
| Sleeping= 6 in the Loft, sleeping platforms and floor space on the main floor.
| Capacity= 10 (15 tight)
| Drinking Water=Stream to the South, Lake to the West (it's really big)
| Human Waste=Outhouse to the NNW of the Hut
| Grey Water=
| Garbage=}} <!--Use the <br> tag if you wish to use more than one line break in one section-->
The Burton Hut accommodates about 10 people comfortably and up to 15 with a bit of squeezing.  There is a lot of sleeping space (attic (6), sleeping platform (5), sleeping bench (2), on the floor underneath the sleeping platform (5) ) but space for cooking, socializing and gear storage / drying is more limited. The Coleman stove was been replaced in 2012 with one that will hopefully be more reliable. It may be advisable to carry in your own stove and not to rely entirely on the hut stove working. In summer 2006 it was [[Burton 2006 renovations|renovated]], and is now weatherproof and insulated, making the hut far warmer than it was before the renovation.
{{NoCampfires|alignment=left}}


Mid winter access is generally straightforward.  Ski / Snowshoe the well used trail up to Garibaldi Lake (9km) and then continue across the frozen lake to the hut (4km).  Make sure to scout the ice from a hill first, as the far side of the lake around the Burton Hut is always the last part to freeze, and it is not easy to spot open water from so far away if you are standing at lake level.
===Library===
* VOC Journals: '''[[VOC_Journal#List_of_publications|List of VOC Journals at this Hut]]'''
*One New [[VOC Songbook]]
*Gateway to the Empire


'''Summer'''
==Winter Activities==
===Skiing===
{{avalanche hazard}}


Summer access requires walking around the Lake, usually via Black Tusk Meadows, over the Helm Glacier to Gentian Pass, and then bushwacking down from Gentian Pass to the hut.
The Burton Hut is an awesome base for fair weather skiing, with amazing long glacier descents all around.  There are few trees however, so it is a poor destination in bad weather or in unstable conditions.  The hut is often used as a stopover on the [[Garibaldi Neve Traverse]].
 
==History==


Try asking Roland ''Burton''.  The hut was built back in 1969 making it the VOC's oldest standing hut.  For many years, the hut was the site of an annual Sphinx Spring Ski Camp. This used to be a huge event with dozens of people trekking across the lake around easter to ski in the basin. There's even an old 8mm movie in the clubroom archives somewhere about it.
:;The Garbage Pile: When the visibility is so bad that you cannot tell if you are about to be avalanched if heading for the Guard-Deception Col, then you can instead go up the pile of volcanic rubble on the N side of Sphinx Valley (approx. 1570m elevation), below Polemonium Ridge, and get a few short runs down to the valley bottom. A few trees provide some hints of visibility.


The Burton Hut has seen somewhat reduced activity in recent years, and remains in pristine condition despite its age.  In August 2006 the hut was renovated with a new door, windows, floor, insulation and a vapour barier to help keep things warmer in the winter.
:;Guard Glacier: Ski up to Guard Pass (the Guard - Deception col) and then continue on up to near the top of the north end of the Deception Pinnacles.  An amazing ski descent of 2500ft back to the Burton Hut awaits.  A safer ascent route, although less direct, is to climb the Sphinx glacier then cross under Deception near the top.


==Hut and Trail Conditions==
:;Bookworm Corridor: On a clear day you can't miss it; get onto the steep nose of the glacier and work your way up the corridor to the Bookworms.  Avoid crevasses at the top of the corridor.  You can either return the same way, or swing past the Bookworms towards Sphinx, descending to the valley parallel to, and east of, the Guard-Deception route.


===Feb 16-17, 2006===
:;Sentinel Glacier: The Sentinel Glacier in Sentinel Bay is just around the corner.  Get there by traveling along the lake, or up over Sphinx Pass.  Guard Pass is slightly lower, but the south side of the pass is steep and rocky.  A long ski run descends from near the summit of Glacier Pikes to Garibaldi Lake.


Lake is frozen very solid.  Big winds and Hut was cold first night, but for second night we got the catalytic (naphtha!) heater going and partially buried the exposed parts of the hut to insulate it, and it wasn't half bad.  Some urbanites had filled the Coleman lamp with kerosene, so this had to be dumped and washed with naphtha a couple of times before it would work.  Did not investigate the Coleman stove or the kerosene heater, but likely the heater is rusted up and won't work.  I am putting together a proposal to insulate the Hut, and take out the kero heater.  Anybody interested in this one way or another, contact Roland.
===Mountaineering===
 
There are good nearby climbs on Castle Towers, Sphinx, Deception Pinnacles and Guard Peak. Short, alpine rock routes can also be found on the Phyllis Engine and the Bookworms.
===Feb 18, 2006===
 
JP's party of five were seen crossing the neve around noon on the 18th so they likely spent the night at Sphinx.
 
===Feb 19, 2006===
 
Nick Cowan's party of 5 left Elfin early on the 19th, heading across the neve, so they likely spent the night at Sphinx.
 
Nick's story: I somehow convinced 3 others (Sam, Clemence, Rok) to drive up to Garibaldi Park and try skiing over the Garibaldi Neve. This classic traverse is on most Vancouverites' checklist. Sam, Rok and i headed up to Vancouver Friday night in Sam's burly truck. We met up with Clemence, did some groceries and crashed on her floor. Woke up nice and late to avoid the early-morning Whistler traffic on the Sea-to-Sky. Set off from the Diamond Head parking lot around noon. The route up to Elfin Lakes Hut was super crowded due to the spectacular weather and, not surpisingly, we had to settle for floor space in the huge hut. Rok and i, having skinned up to the hut in pretty good time, headed up Columnar Peak to try out new gear (his splitboard, my helmet). We reached the summit at sunset and enjoyed some suprisingly juicy snow on the NE aspect. Made it back to the hut (just) before dark.
 
We woke up at 5:00 on Sunday and did our best to not wake up the 50-something other people in the hut as we ate breakfast and packed up. Sunrise saw us traversing the avalanche slopes underneath The Gargoyles. Crossing Ring Creek turned out to be a bit spicier than expected but by noon we were on the Garibaldi Glacier, just North of Opal Cone. The slog up the glacier was hot and heavy and we wondered when we were going to experience the frigid alpine weathers that had been forecast for the weekend. We reached the highpoint (about 7000 ft) below Mt Garibaldi in the early afternoon, and as some clouds were showing up, winds picking up and the temperature droppping, we decided to leave the summit for another day and simply ski down the Warren Glacier towards Glacier Pikes. Once again, we were pleasantly surprised at the good snow. We easily avoided crevasses and never came close to roping up. From Glacier Pikes we skied down Sentinel Glacier to Garibaldi Lake. From there it was a short jaunt up the lake to the Burton Hut, maintained by the Varsity Outdoors Club. Unlike the night before we were the only poeple in the (much smaller) hut. We enjoyed the peace and quiet and another delicious dinner.
 
Awake at 6:00, Rok, Sam and i headed up Guard Mountain shortly after sunrise. We skinned and kick-stepped up to a sweet-looking East-facing bowl and absorbed sick views of the surrounding glacier-draped mountains before skiing back down to the hut. Once again, the snow was way better than the rock-hard crust everyone had been expecting. After lunch, packing and cleaning up, we set off across the lake. By eschewing skins we made excellent time. From the NW corner of Garibaldi Lake we skied and hiked down the trail, past Rubble Creek parking lot, right down to Hwy 99. At this point we were in a bit of a jam, since Sam's truck was back at the Diamond Head parking lot. We had laid beautiful plans involving friends picking us up and taking us back to our car, but none of these panned out so we found ourselves hitchiking down the Sea-to-Sky in the dark with lots of gear. Incredibly, one brave soul named Charlie drove up in a big-ass van and offered to drive us all the way up to the truck! An our later we were at the truck, marveling at our good fortune and changing into luscious cotton. A huge dinner at the Howe Sound BrewPub has us in carb coma for the rest of the drive back to Seattle. Got back in the wee hours of Tuesday morning.
 
The trip was everything it was hyped up to be. For those who go out for the sick mountain views, this is about as good as it gets.
 
Casualties:
Clemence's Tuque (lost somewhere below The Gargoyles)
Nick's Nalgene (lost somewhere on Warren Glacier)
Sam's Cables (snapped on Garibaldi Lake)
Rok's Nalgene (lost somewhere on the side of Guard Mtn)
Sam's Pole (bent while gawking at The Barrier)
 
==Sphinx Renovation and Insulation Summer 2006==
 
===Introduction=== 
 
The Sphinx Hut, aka the Burton Hut was built in 1969. Were we to apply today for a permit to build a hut at the location of the Sphinx Hut, our chances of getting a permit would be very slight.  The Hut is in an area rightly designated as environmentally sensitive, at a place seldom visited in the summer.  When we visit it in the winter it is less environmentally sensitive, being protected by snow.
 
The Hut, though 35+ years old, is still structurally sound, attesting to the strength of Gothic arch structures.  But it is very cold in there in the winter, when it matters.  People have referred to it as “an icebox”.  Attempts to heat it with a kerosene heater did not go well; few want to haul kerosene on his/her back for 15 km, when there isn’t any assurance that the heater works.  And the fumes from burning kerosene are not healthy, and certainly not pleasant.  Could we insulate the Hut so that we don’t need the smelly old unreliable kerosene heater?
 
Flushed with the success of rebuilding the Brew Hut, we wondered if it might be possible to renovate and insulate the Sphinx Hut, to make it a more satisfactory winter shelter.  For this to work, we would need to come up with some plans and get approval from the Parks people, who have complete jurisdiction over the Hut.  We would also need about $3000, and we’d need to get the Club behind the project.
 
===Proposed Sphinx Hut Renovation=== 
 
'''Ends:''' The [[sphinx hut door]] should be replaced with a framed insulated steel door, properly weather-stripped.  The new door will open inwards, because with the present door, it is possible to get trapped in the Hut by snow accumulating overnight, outside the door. 
 
The end walls are currently un-insulated half-inch treated plywood and have resisted weathering surprisingly well.  Cracks in the walls permit drafts, and when the wind blows, snow comes through the walls in places.  The proposal is to nail 3/8-inch plywood (painted in Vancouver) to the inside of the end walls, forming standard cavity walls.  The cavities formed can be insulated with Styrofoam or with Fiberglas.  Vapour barrier, installed behind the 3/8 ply, will make the walls wind-proof.  Caulking will take care of the cracks.  The plywood must be cut on site using hand tools.
 
The current [[sphinx hut windows]] are single sheets of Plexiglas, not treated to resist ultraviolet light, and they still do their job, but they are getting opaque.  If we’re insulating everything else, we should replace the windows with double-glazed tempered glass, or at least doubled Plexiglas.  For three of them we simply replace the Plexiglas and trim; for the fourth one we must build a hinged frame (or buy one). 
 
The '''floor''' is completely un-insulated, and is supported on four-foot centers, so it is a little too springy.  In addition, a porcupine got under the Hut about 20 years ago and partially ate through the floor, so it has a few holes, patched with plywood scraps.  (The porcupines can no longer get under the Hut).  The proposal is to cover the old floor with new plywood, which will be painted in Vancouver to make it weather-resistant.  The new floor can be glued and nailed over the old floor with a minimum amount of work. 
 
The '''sidewalls''' are a challenge to insulate because they are curved.  It is possible to bend 3/8 inch plywood sheathing, and apply it over (inside) the existing siding, with a layer of insulation (about 3/4 inch insulation.  This should cut the drafts completely and give us about R3 insulation.
 
We should fix up the '''interior furnishings''':  The cooking counter is currently made of a small scrap of plywood covered with some battered aluminium.  A better counter would be 2’ x 8’ plywood, with a shelf under, and covered with more robust, non-battered aluminium.  And people complain of the limited seating, so we propose to put a wide bench along the N wall, which will be used for seating or sleeping. 
'''Transport''' We would need to rent a u-haul truck to haul the materials.  One one flight of an Astar helicopter should deliver the building materials.  Perhaps the Parks people could split a charter with us, so we don’t get dinged for the total ferry time.  Or, as we need to do some cleanup at Brew, we might charter a single helicopter for both of these.
 
'''Cost Summary''': around $3k, $1k for transport and $2k for materials.
 
'''Weight Summary''': one helicopter load (1700#)
 
'''Time Frame''': To do the work on site, one week's work on site.  Some work to be done in Vancouver to prepare for the on-site work.


'''When?'''  The work has been scheduled for Aug 12-20, 2006. Sign up [[Burton Hut Rennovation|here]]
==Maps==
The hut is on NTS map sheet {{NTS link|092|g|15}} but most of the approach is on {{NTS link|092|g|14}}.  


==Gallery==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="220px">
<!-- To add a photo use the following syntax without the quotations: "File:Photo.jpg|Photo Caption" -->


</gallery>




==External links==




{{Archive}}


[[Category:Huts]]
[[Category:Huts]]
[[Category:Skiing Trips]]
[[Category:Skiing Trips]]
[[Category:Squamish-Whistler]]
[[Category:Squamish-Whistler]]

Latest revision as of 06:48, 20 February 2025

Roland Burton Hut

Burton Hut after the 2024 restoration
Overnight Capacity 10-15
Coordinates
Elevation 1475m
Fee VOC: $15/night (PAY ONLINE HERE)
BC Parks Fee $10/night [1-800-689-9025 (BOOK BY PHONE)]
Reservations No
Locked No
Built 1969 (renovated 2006, 2024)
Caretaker Varsity Outdoor Club
Legal
  • Type: 2024 BC Parks PUP
  • Status: Pending

The Roland Burton Hut, also known as Sphinx Hut, is the VOC's oldest current hut. It is located in Sphinx Bay, on the east side of Garibaldi Lake. Access is easiest in winter when the Lake is frozen. In late spring, it seems that the hut occasionally floods with water due to ice jamming the nearby creek where it flows into Garibaldi Lake.

Burton (Sphinx) Hut on the VOC Huts website

Campfires are PROHIBITED at all VOC huts.
VOC Huts are located in sensitive alpine environments. Follow Leave No Trace principles and please do not make campfires.

If you see someone having a campfire at one of our huts, please report them to information(at)ubc-voc(dot).com.

History

Main article: Construction of Burton Hut

Try asking Roland Burton. The hut was built back in 1969 making it the VOC's oldest standing hut. Roland received the Gold Pin in 1970 for his contribution to building the hut.

For many years, the hut was the site of an annual Sphinx Spring Ski Camp. This used to be a huge event with dozens of people trekking across the lake around easter to ski in the basin. There's even an old 8mm movie from the 1962 trip in the clubroom archives about it.

The Burton Hut has seen relatively low activity over it's lifetime, primarily because it is only easily accessible for only 3 or 4 months every year. This pattern of relatively low use kept the hut in reasonable shape for many years.

In August 2006 the Burton hut was renovated with a new door, windows, floor, end walls, insulation and a vapour barier to help keep things warmer in the winter. The hut furniture was completely rebuilt to provide a large cooking area and a 30 inch wide bench for sitting, sleeping or gear storage. The old kerosene heater (and all remaining kerosene) were removed and replaced with a white gas catalytic heater.

In November 2024 a large restoration project was undertaken on the hut. Financial support was provided by the ACC Whistler section, the FMCBC, the AMS, and ACC Vancouver section. The original roofing was completely replaced and the hut was re-insulated. Additionally, new gothic arches were installed to reinforce the old supports. New floor joists and floor beams were also installed to correct a sag in the floor. The hut was also mouse-proofed.

Fees


No reservations are taken, but please see the VOC Hut Registration page to help coordinate use.
For the most up to date information on the Hut see the Bulletins on the Hut Registration Page.


VOC huts are open to all non-motorized, non-commercial users. A $15 per person per night fee applies to pay for hut maintenance. The fee can be sent in to the VOC via our Showpass Donation Page or can be left at the hut in the blue drop box. If neither of these work, you can send it to the VOC by mail. VOC trips have priority during fall and winter holidays (New Years, Reading Week, Easter) so please contact the VOC before planning a trip during this time. Commercial groups are requested to contact the VOC before using any of the huts. There is a lost and found page for items in and around the VOC huts.


A BC Parks Wilderness Camping Permit must be purchased for any overnight stay in Garibaldi Park that is not at one of the established campgrounds (such as Garibaldi Lake Campground). The Wilderness Permit must be purchased regardless of whether you are a VOC fee-paying member, or not and it is in addition to any other fees. Wilderness camping is only permitted if you are at least 2km away from any established trail or reservable campground or, you are in the designated wilderness camping zone. All overnight stays at Burton Hut or the Sentinel Bay Glaciology Huts require a Wilderness Camping Permit. This applies to any member of the public including VOC members. Permits can be purchased from Discover Camping up until 5pm the day you intend to arrive. The penalty for not paying $144 per person. The BC Parks Wilderness Camping Permit comes into effect 2018 April 10th

Access

Main article: Burton Hut Centennial Trail

Access to the Burton Hut is complicated by the fact that there is no trail for access in summer, and that Garibaldi Lake is so huge that it doesn't usually freeze until sometime in January, for access in winter. For complete details for how to access the Hut, view the Burton Hut Centennial Trail.

Burton Hut is within Garibaldi Park and therefore zoned for non-motorized use only. For details see Winter Recreation Zoning near VOC Huts.

Facilities

The information on this page is just a snapshot. See the Hut Inventory Page for complete information on tools and materials at the Hut

Heating White Gas Catalytic Heater
Lighting Solar
Cooking White Gas Two Burner Coleman Stove
Fire Safety
First Aid
Sleeping 6 in the Loft, sleeping platforms and floor space on the main floor.
Capacity 10 (15 tight)
Drinking water Stream to the South, Lake to the West (it's really big)
Human Waste Outhouse to the NNW of the Hut
Greywater
Garbage

The Burton Hut accommodates about 10 people comfortably and up to 15 with a bit of squeezing. There is a lot of sleeping space (attic (6), sleeping platform (5), sleeping bench (2), on the floor underneath the sleeping platform (5) ) but space for cooking, socializing and gear storage / drying is more limited. The Coleman stove was been replaced in 2012 with one that will hopefully be more reliable. It may be advisable to carry in your own stove and not to rely entirely on the hut stove working. In summer 2006 it was renovated, and is now weatherproof and insulated, making the hut far warmer than it was before the renovation.

Campfires are PROHIBITED at all VOC huts.
VOC Huts are located in sensitive alpine environments. Follow Leave No Trace principles and please do not make campfires.

If you see someone having a campfire at one of our huts, please report them to information(at)ubc-voc(dot).com.






Library

Winter Activities

Skiing

Avalanche Hazard
The route and terrain described here is capable of producing avalanches. Safe travel requires the skills and equipment to assess and mitigate avalanche hazards. A professionally taught training course is highly recommended.

The Burton Hut is an awesome base for fair weather skiing, with amazing long glacier descents all around. There are few trees however, so it is a poor destination in bad weather or in unstable conditions. The hut is often used as a stopover on the Garibaldi Neve Traverse.

The Garbage Pile
When the visibility is so bad that you cannot tell if you are about to be avalanched if heading for the Guard-Deception Col, then you can instead go up the pile of volcanic rubble on the N side of Sphinx Valley (approx. 1570m elevation), below Polemonium Ridge, and get a few short runs down to the valley bottom. A few trees provide some hints of visibility.
Guard Glacier
Ski up to Guard Pass (the Guard - Deception col) and then continue on up to near the top of the north end of the Deception Pinnacles. An amazing ski descent of 2500ft back to the Burton Hut awaits. A safer ascent route, although less direct, is to climb the Sphinx glacier then cross under Deception near the top.
Bookworm Corridor
On a clear day you can't miss it; get onto the steep nose of the glacier and work your way up the corridor to the Bookworms. Avoid crevasses at the top of the corridor. You can either return the same way, or swing past the Bookworms towards Sphinx, descending to the valley parallel to, and east of, the Guard-Deception route.
Sentinel Glacier
The Sentinel Glacier in Sentinel Bay is just around the corner. Get there by traveling along the lake, or up over Sphinx Pass. Guard Pass is slightly lower, but the south side of the pass is steep and rocky. A long ski run descends from near the summit of Glacier Pikes to Garibaldi Lake.

Mountaineering

There are good nearby climbs on Castle Towers, Sphinx, Deception Pinnacles and Guard Peak. Short, alpine rock routes can also be found on the Phyllis Engine and the Bookworms.

Maps

The hut is on NTS map sheet 92 G/15 but most of the approach is on 92 G/14.


Archive Available
This page has an archive associated with it.
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