Smith Rock

Smith Rock

Introduction

Smith Rock State Park is the premier rockclimbing destination in Central Oregon and is famous worldwide as an early birth place of bolted sport climbing in North America. Climbing is on two primary volcanic rock types. The welded tuff of the main formations provides knobby and pocketed face and irregular crack climbs at all angles and all difficulties. The basalt columns of the upper and lower gorges provide steep splitter cracks and delicate bolted face climbs.

Fall and Spring are prime seasons, winter can be cold and snowy but manageable, summer is formidably hot.

Top-ropeable climbs are limited in number as most formations are more than 1/2 rope length high. However there are numerous quality bolted and traditionally protected climbs at easy grades for the beginner lead climber.

Directions

Shortest Way from Vancouver to Smith Rock

• Shortest Way (Google Maps)

1. Follow I-5 south through Seattle and take the I-205 exit north of Portland, following signs to HWY 26.
2. Head southeast on HWY 26 through some small towns (Sandy, Brigthwood, Government Camp).
3. Climb over the west flank of Mt. Hood into the central desert and the town of Madras.
4. Take HWY 97 from Madras to the small town of Terrebonne.
5. Turn East off HWY 97 at NE Smith Rock Way, then head to one of the campgrounds.

The entire drive from Vancouver takes about 10 hours in good conditions (and with short border delays).

• Alternate Way (Google Maps)

1. Take the I-90 out of Seattle east to Yakima.
2. Turn right on HWY 97 and follow the directions as above.

Both of the above options involve travelling through a high mountain pass, so if the weather looks bad (snow in the passes) you could consider a different route. If you follow the Columbia River east from Portland by taking the I-84, you can avoid the high elevation. Take HWY 197 south from The Dalles until it meets up with the 97, then proceed south to Terrebonne.

• Scott's Variation (Google Maps)

1. To avoid Mt Hood and Snoqualmie, following first step in Shortest Way but head directly east on I-84 to The Dalles, then directly south to Smith on HWY 197.

Local map of Redmond & Smith Rock

Camping

Camp at Skull Hollow/The Grasslands for free. There are pit toilets but few other amenities. There are fire-pits for campfires. No picnic tables or seats, so bring your own lawnchairs etc. There is no water supply at the campground so bring your own jugs to fill from taps in town or at the climbing area. This camping area is about a 10 minute drive from the climbing area.

There is also a walk-in campground right in Smith Rock park (right next to the day-use parking). Although this costs a few bucks, you won't have to do a daily commute to the crags. After you factor in the day-use fee you would have to pay if you camped elsewhere, gas, and wear-and-tear on your car it's probably the cheaper alternative. However, there are no fires allowed at this site, which may make for a chillier night.

Food

There is a small grocery store in Terrebonne (20 minutes away), and a Safeway in Redmond, a little further down the highway.

Climbing

The climbing area is almost entirely contained within Smith Rock State Park. There is a day-use parking fee at the park ($3US per car) which can only be paid by cash or cheque.

What to bring

Bring American money and a passport. You will get hosed on the exchange rate if you try to use a debit card. Bring your climbing gear, camping gear (reasonably warm), and a guide book (at least a photo copy). Should talk around to share tents and stoves.

Past Trips

Smith Rock 2007
Smith Rock Trip 2006

External Links

• www.smithrock.com
• Mike Young's Topo
• Dr. Topo Topo
• Kaja's Directions to Smith