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| Coordinates (NAD 27)={{coord|10U|469480|5596404|NAD27|hidedatum}}  
| Coordinates (NAD 27)={{coord|10U|469480|5596404|NAD27|hidedatum}}  
| NTS Topographic map={{NTS link|092|j|11}}
| NTS Topographic map={{NTS link|092|j|11}}
| Fee=$5 / night
| VOC Fee=$15/night
| Reservations=No
| Reservations=No
| Locked=No
| Locked=No
| Access=[[Harrison Hut Trail]]
| Built=1983
| Built=1983
| Caretaker=Varsity Outdoor Club
| Caretaker=Varsity Outdoor Club
| Capacity=15}}
| Capacity=15
| Legal Type=License of Occupation Tenure
| Legal Number=[[Media:File 2401192 Licence of Occupation 243397.pdf|243397]]
| Legal Status=Active until 2027-05-17
| Management Plan=[[Media:2017_Julian_Harrison_Hut_Management_Plan.pdf|2017 Plan]], [[Media:2018 Huts Management Plan.pdf|2018 Plan]]
| BivouacFeatureID=113
}}
The '''Julian Harrison Hut''' is a large gothic A-frame located 50km north-west of Pemberton, BC at 1,725 m (5,659 ft). The Hut rests in a subalpine meadow at the northern most part of the Pemberton Icefield (south of Meager Creek valley), in the headwaters of Barr (a.k.a. Madhorse) Creek, on the territory of [https://lilwat.ca Lil'wat Nation]. Typical [[Harrison Hut#Access|access]] from the Lillooet River Valley is a 19.5 km hike with 1850 m elevation gain, completed over two days. The Hut is maintained by the Varsity Outdoor Club of the AMS.


The '''Harrison Hut''' was erected in the fall of 1983. You will find the hut on the northernmost part of the Pemberton Icefield (south of Meager Creek valley), in the headwaters of Barr (a.k.a. Madhorse) Creek and near the peaks of Overseer, Frozen Boot, Zygo and the Three Stooges.
'''''See also:''''' [https://huts.ubc-voc.com/Harrison/ Harrison Hut on the VOC Huts website]
{{NoCampfires|alignment=center}}


{{about huts in general}}
{{TOClimit|3}}
==History==
{{main|Construction of Harrison Hut}}
Initially called the Meager hut during the planning phase in 1983, the hut was renamed the Harrison Hut shortly after Julian Harrison (VOC President 1973-1974) was tragically killed in an avalanche in California in April of that year. The Hut was finally erected on the Thanksgiving weekend in the fall of 1983. To read more about the construction of the Hut see the [[VOCJ23|23rd VOC Journal]]


==Facilities==
==Fees and Current Condition==
{{about huts in general|bears=Yes}}


The Harrison Hut is a large gothic A-frame, sleeping 15 friendly people. It has a very efficient wood stove, and is surprisingly cozy and warm. Clothes and boots may be dried. Dead wood for fuel can be obtained from a small forest 50 m away; the use of the stove for the past 15 or so years does not seem to have damaged the forest. A Coleman stove and a Coleman lamp are provided, but you have to bring your own fuel (white gas). There is an outhouse. Water may be obtained from a nearby creek.
==Access==
{{main|Harrison Hut Trail}}
Harrison Hut can be accessed from a branch of the Lillooet South FSR by the [[Harrison Hut Trail]]. The trail itself is only 12 km long, but access to the trailhead is currently blocked by the 23 km gate on the Lillooet South FSR and its associated closures. Visitors need to park at the gate and walk or bike 7.5 km up logging roads to reach the trailhead (19.5 km total). Most groups hike to the hut over two days.


==Skiing==
Harrison Hut is zoned for non-motorized use with air access use, however, the VOC would like to kindly remind visitors that the hut is intended for non-motorized users only. In the winter when the hut becomes inaccessible to most self-propelled ski tourers, the VOC permits air access to the hut with certain conditions as outlined below. Aside from the winter air access described below, air access to the Hut is explicitly for hut work related trips (such as providing firewood or renovation materials) and not permitted for any other purpose. For further details on recreation zoning see the page on [[Winter Recreation Zoning near VOC Huts]] and the latest VOC [[Hut Maintenance#Hut Management Plans|Hut Management Plan]].


The purpose of the hut is to provide access to excellent backcountry skiing. There are several glaciers within easy ski access from the Hut, and several peaks are nearby, offering suitable destinations for day trips. The Harrison hut is often used as the start or end point of the [[Pemberton Ice Cap|Pemberton Icefield Ski Traverse]]
===Winter Air Access===
{{Template:Harrison Hut Helicopter Access}}


==Hiking, scrambling and mountaineering==
==Facilities==
'''''See also:''''' [[Hut Inventory]]


There are several possibilities for hiking, scrambling and mountaineering in the area. The most popular routes are on Overseer Mountain, Frozen boot, and the Three Stooges.
The information on this page is just a snapshot. See the Hut Inventory Page for complete information on tools and materials at the Hut.
[[File:Harrison_Main_Floor.JPG|thumb|right|280px|Main Floor of Harrison Hut]]
[[File:Harrison_Loft.JPG|thumb|right|280px|The loft can sleep about 15 people]]
{{HutFacilities
| Heating=Wood stove
| Lighting=Solar powered LED light
| Cooking=Two Coleman White Gas Stove and One [[Propane Coleman Stove]]
| Sleeping=Open floor loft. No pads.
| Capacity=15 persons
| Fire Safety=One Fire Extinguisher (1981) with good Pressure and Weight
| First Aid=Neck Brace, Spine Board, General First Aid kit (updated in winter of 2024)
| Drinking Water=Nearby creek (boil or filter)
| Human Waste=Outhouse (Use the Aluminum North Outhouse)
| Grey Water=Downhill of hut
| Garbage=Pack it out
}}
The Hut can sleep 15 friendly people. It has a very efficient wood stove, and is surprisingly cozy and warm. Clothes and boots may be dried. Dead wood for fuel can be obtained from a small forest 50 m away; the use of the stove for the past 15 or so years does not seem to have damaged the forest. If you are using the hut during winter season (usually accessed by helicopter or snowmobile), please bring your own firewood. A [[Coleman Stoves|Coleman stove]] and a Coleman lamp are provided, but you have to bring your own fuel (white gas). There is are two outhouses. The one made of plywood is the decommissioned and has been called the "Home Depot" as it is now used to store old timber and plywood that might be useful for projects later. Try not to use what could be useful wood for firewood. Please use the Aluminum Outhouse to the South-West rather than the Home Depot. Water may be obtained from the nearby creek to the North of the Hut. The Logbook is almost full and a new one needs to be brought up. All of the furniture and baseboards were rebuilt in 2017 with the door and floor replacement renovations.
{{NoCampfires|alignment=left}}


===Frozen Boot (Mount Breshnev)===
===Library===
A collection of books are available at the Harrison Hut for your enjoyment:
* VOC Journals: '''[[VOC_Journal#List_of_publications|List of VOC Journals at this Hut]]'''
* [[VOC Songbook]] (5 new, 3 old)
*


*The North Ridge is a nice scramble.  Mostly hiking with a few class 2-3 steps.
==Activities==
*The South Ridge is also a class 2-3 scrambled, accessed from the col at the top of the Roller Coaster Glacier.
[[File:Harrison_Panorama.png|frameless|center|900px]]


===Overseer===
===Winter===
There are several glaciers within easy ski access from the Hut, and several peaks are nearby, offering suitable destinations for day trips. The Harrison hut is often used as the start or end point of the [[Pemberton Ice Cap|Pemberton Icefield Ski Traverse]]


Overseer is the highest summit on the Pemberton Icefield.  There are two routes to get to the mountain from the hut. The first option is to ascend to the top of the Roller coast glacier, cross over to the Madhorse Glacier and descend towards Overseer.  The other option is to cross the north ridge of Frozen Boot (steep grassy slopes) and come up along the Madhorse Glacier.
===Summer===
There are several possibilities for hiking, scrambling and mountaineering in the area. The most popular routes are on Overseer Mountain, Frozen boot, and the Three Stooges.


*The south ridge is a moderately difficult scramble with lots of loose rock. The rock is better on the ridge crest, but the climbing is more difficult (up to class 3).  Difficulties can be avoided (at first on the left, then on the right), but the rock gets much worse away from the ridge.
====Frozen Boot (Mount Breshnev) (2579m)====
*The North Ridge is a nice scramble.  Mostly hiking with a few class 2-3 steps.
*The South Ridge is also a class 2-3 scramble, accessed from the col at the top of the Roller Coaster Glacier.


==Access==
====Overseer (2749m)====
 
Overseer is the highest summit on the Pemberton Icefield.  In his scrambles guide Matt Gunn describes a route skirting the edge of the Madhorse Glacier and up the South East side as moderate, not to mention giving it three stars (out of a possible three). There are two routes to get to the mountain from the hut.  The first option is to ascend to the top of the Roller Coaster Glacier, cross over to the Madhorse Glacier and descend towards Overseer. The other option is to cross the north ridge of Frozen Boot (steep grassy slopes) and come up along the Madhorse Glacier.
===To trailhead===
 
'''Summer:''' Follow Hwy 99 to Pemberton, at the Petro Canada gas station in Pemberton turn left (Portage road) and follow the main road through the town (left at roundabout, right at T-junction). You are now on the Pemberton Meadows Road. After about 25km from the Petro Canada, turn right onto the Upper Lillooet River FSR.  It soon crosses the Lillooet River, then turns from pavement to gravel after a few km. Watch for logging trucks. Ignore a major spur road on the right after 9km (Hurley FSR).
 
After 37km from the start of the Upper Lillooet River FSR, turn left onto the Meager Creek Main FSR (this is about 1km past the BC Parks Upper Lillooet River recreation site, see [http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/up_lillooet/ link]). The Meager Creek Main logging road crosses the Lillooet River after a couple of hundred meters, and is gated at the bridge (gate is currently locked - June 2008). Continue along this road. After about 6km turn left onto the Meager Creek South Branch and cross the (new) bridge over Meager Creek. Pass the [[Hot_spring_trips#Meager_Creek_hot_springs|Meager hotsprings]], and cross Barr (a.k.a. Madhorse) Creek. Currently (June 2008) the Lillooet and Meager FSR's are in 2WD condition.


Counting from the start of the Meager Creek South Branch FSR, take a left turn after about 5.3km (at 10U 465984 5599351 UTM NAD27 at 2530'/ 770m elevation). You are now on the Barr Creek FSR, an overgrown logging road that switchbacks up on the southwest side of Barr Creek. Ignore four spur roads on the right (one just before the first switchback, a second spur road between the first and second switchback, a third spur road in between the second and third switchback, and a spur road well past the third switchback). The Barr Creek logging road is in fairly rough shape and partly overgrown with alder. Currently (June 2008) the road is in 4wd (moderate clearance) condition until a good turn around between second and third switchback, expect paint-scratching alder and moderate cross-ditches until here (3120' / 950 m). To get any further you will need a serious 4WD-HC vehicle (lots of alder and big cross-ditches). Follow the Barr Creek logging road for about 4-5km to the top (northeast) corner of a large clearcut (10U 467246 5599111 UTM NAD27, 3810' / 1160m elevation). You have now reached the trailhead. Impassable cross-ditches block the road about 100-200m before the trailhead.
*The South Ridge is a moderately difficult scramble with some loose rock. The rock is better on the ridge crest, but the climbing is more difficult (up to class 3). Difficulties can be avoided (at first on the left, then on the right), but the rock gets much worse away from the ridge.


'''Winter:''' Access during mid winter is problematic. The Lillooet River FSR is usually not plowed, and commonly gated at km 9 (just past Hurley FSR turn-off) due to avalanche danger. This makes mid-winter access a long and arduous affair, adding roughly 40-45km of travel along logging roads.
For climbers, Alpine Select describes a route up the central couloir on the Southwest face and up the headwall as 5.8, with many variations possible (read: possible routefinding difficulties or choose your difficulty, depending on how you look at it)


===Map===
====The Three Stooges (2441m)====
The North ridge of The Three Stooges, glaciated on either side, points straight at the hut.  Matt Gunn says: two stars, moderate.


Map showing the Barr Creek FSR (green) and flagged route (blue).
==== Volition (Two Doctors) Peak (2368m) ====
SW from the hut, a scramble.  [http://www.bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=6593 Bivouac has some beta]


<googlemap version="0.9" lat="50.532416" lon="-123.450451" type="terrain" zoom="13">
==== Zygo Peak (2623m) ====
4#FF84C575
SE from the hut, another scramble. [http://www.bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=6843 Bivouac has some beta on it too.]
50.54692, -123.48144
Start of road
50.54365, -123.48190
Ignore spur on left
50.54347, -123.48176
First switchback
50.54563, -123.47958
Ignore spur on left
50.54866, -123.47454
50.54896, -123.47146
Second switchback
50.54672, -123.47443
Ignore spur on left, good parking spot for moderate clearance vehicles
50.54321, -123.47476
Third switchback
50.54678, -123.47156
50.54731, -123.46724
50.54685, -123.46720
Ignore spur on left
50.54712, -123.46621
50.54666, -123.46261
50.54568, -123.46387
50.54569, -123.46196
50.54483, -123.46361
Trailhead
50.54256, -123.46547
50.54167, -123.46667
50.54000, -123.46833
Approx. end of road
4#FF7A75C5
50.54483, -123.46361
Trailhead
50.54428, -123.46289
End of logging slash, start of steep bushwack
50.53944, -123.46183
Less steep bushwack after this
50.53739, -123.45981
50.53328, -123.45778
50.52568, -123.45537
50.52250, -123.45031
Start of sub-alpine bench
50.51933, -123.44836
End of flagging
50.51664, -123.44878
End of sub-alpine bench
50.51453, -123.44470
50.51607, -123.44274
50.51833, -123.43500
Creek crossing (approximate)
50.52061, -123.43186
Hut
</googlemap>


Download <googlemapkml>KML file</googlemapkml> with all coordinates.
==== Uriah's Heap (2621m) ====
Another scramble with enough [http://www.bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=4219 beta from bivouac] to make it go.


===Trailhead to Hut===
==== The Meager Obelisk (2260m) ====
A 40m rock tower near Volition (Two Doctors) Peak offers a 5.9 fist crack.  The first ascent involved two mountaineers luring two craggers from Squamish to act as rope guns.  Upon completing the first ascent the craggers immediately top-roped some harder climbs on the same pillar.


A newly flagged bushwack (June 2008) follows the broad ridge up on the southwest side of Barr creek to the alpine. The route is marked with blue (new) and orange (old) flagging tape, and follows, at times, steep forest with moderate underbrush. The flagged route ends at a sub-alpine bench below and east of the 6700ft bump ("pine bump"). From the start of the bench (10U 468173 5596622 UTM NAD27 at 6170' /1880m), continue southwards along the bench until it is possible to descend towards the creek draining the Magic Carpet glacier (middle of three glaciers south of the hut). Crossing the creek might require wading through ice cold water. The choice of descent point may depend on availability of snow for glissading and location of snow bridges. The most mellow route follows a longer contour around the valley.
==Maps==
*[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DhsNAPAfaXmqwjQnhCITFfD4FEE&usp=sharing Harrison Hut Trail and Surrounding Area Map]
*[https://maps.google.ca/maps/ms?msid=204787356417747473839.0004e0f9957b37205884c&msa=0&ll=50.540599,-123.428478&spn=0.06884,0.15604 (notated) google map]
*[[Media:Harrison_access_legal_size.pdf]]


===Access history===
==Gallery==
Access to the hut has often been, and at times still is, problematic. The Lillooet River FSR is gated in winter due to avalanche danger 28km before the Meager creek turn off (at the Hurley turnoff). If you manage to get past this gate and the road is devoid of snowpack and avalanche debris, there is another gate at the start of the Meager Creek FSR on the Lillooet River Bridge. Assuming you can get past the gates then you can drive up the Meager Creek FSR. The Meager Creek valley is surrounded by rotten and unstable volcanic rocks that can produce debris flows. In recent years these have destroyed several bridges (Capricorn Creek, Meager Creek). In December 2003 the Meager Creek bridge was taken out by such a debris flow, people who were trapped behind the bridge at the hot springs had to be flown out by helicopter, and it took until the fall of 2007 to repair the bridge. In the absence of a bridge, the Meager Creek is hard, if not impossible, to cross. It is rumored that it is possible to ford the creek about 5km upstream above the confluence of the two branches of the Meager Creek.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="220px">
<!-- To add a photo use the following syntax without the quotations: "File:Photo.jpg|Photo Caption" -->


==History of the hut==
</gallery>
 
See [[History_of_VOC_huts#Harrison_Hut|History of VOC Huts]]


==External Links==
==External Links==
*[http://www.library.ubc.ca/archives/pdfs/chronicle/AL_CHRON_1983_3.pdf UBC Chronicles Archives (pdf file)] mentioning the death of Julian Harrison (Fall 1983, p.14) <br>
*[http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13198402400/Avalanche-California-Mount-Shasta American Alpine Club accident Report on Julian Harrison's death]


[http://www.library.ubc.ca/archives/pdfs/chronicle/AL_CHRON_1983_3.pdf UBC Chronicles Archives (pdf file)] mentioning the death of Julian Harrison (Fall 1983, p.14)
[[Category:Harrison Hut|!]]
 
[[Category:Hiking Trips]]
[[Category:Huts]]
[[Category:Scrambling Trips]]
[[Category:Skiing Trips]]

Latest revision as of 17:14, 24 June 2025

Harrison Hut

Harrison Hut during construction
Overnight Capacity 15
Coordinates
Elevation 1725m
Fee $15/night (PAY ONLINE HERE)
Reservations No
Locked No
Access Harrison Hut Trail
Built 1983
Caretaker Varsity Outdoor Club
Legal
  • Type: License of Occupation Tenure
  • Status: Active until 2027-05-17
  • Number: 243397
  • Management: 2025 Plan

The Julian Harrison Hut is a large gothic A-frame located 50km north-west of Pemberton, BC at 1,725 m (5,659 ft). The Hut rests in a subalpine meadow at the northern most part of the Pemberton Icefield (south of Meager Creek valley), in the headwaters of Barr (a.k.a. Madhorse) Creek, on the territory of Lil'wat Nation. Typical access from the Lillooet River Valley is a 19.5 km hike with 1850 m elevation gain, completed over two days. The Hut is maintained by the Varsity Outdoor Club of the AMS.

See also: Harrison Hut on the VOC Huts website

Campfires are PROHIBITED at all VOC huts.
VOC Huts are located in sensitive alpine environments. Follow Leave No Trace principles and please do not make campfires.

If you see someone having a campfire at one of our huts, please report them to information(at)ubc-voc(dot).com.

History

Main article: Construction of Harrison Hut

Initially called the Meager hut during the planning phase in 1983, the hut was renamed the Harrison Hut shortly after Julian Harrison (VOC President 1973-1974) was tragically killed in an avalanche in California in April of that year. The Hut was finally erected on the Thanksgiving weekend in the fall of 1983. To read more about the construction of the Hut see the 23rd VOC Journal

Fees and Current Condition


No reservations are taken, but please see the VOC Hut Registration page to help coordinate use.
For the most up to date information on the Hut see the Bulletins on the Hut Registration Page.


VOC huts are open to all non-motorized, non-commercial users. A $15 per person per night fee applies to pay for hut maintenance. The fee can be sent in to the VOC via our Showpass Donation Page or can be left at the hut in the blue drop box. If neither of these work, you can send it to the VOC by mail. VOC trips have priority during fall and winter holidays (New Years, Reading Week, Easter) so please contact the VOC before planning a trip during this time. Commercial groups are requested to contact the VOC before using any of the huts. There is a lost and found page for items in and around the VOC huts. Note that this is a bear-active area. Follow the proper bear aware procedures when hiking in this area.


Access

Main article: Harrison Hut Trail

Harrison Hut can be accessed from a branch of the Lillooet South FSR by the Harrison Hut Trail. The trail itself is only 12 km long, but access to the trailhead is currently blocked by the 23 km gate on the Lillooet South FSR and its associated closures. Visitors need to park at the gate and walk or bike 7.5 km up logging roads to reach the trailhead (19.5 km total). Most groups hike to the hut over two days.

Harrison Hut is zoned for non-motorized use with air access use, however, the VOC would like to kindly remind visitors that the hut is intended for non-motorized users only. In the winter when the hut becomes inaccessible to most self-propelled ski tourers, the VOC permits air access to the hut with certain conditions as outlined below. Aside from the winter air access described below, air access to the Hut is explicitly for hut work related trips (such as providing firewood or renovation materials) and not permitted for any other purpose. For further details on recreation zoning see the page on Winter Recreation Zoning near VOC Huts and the latest VOC Hut Management Plan.

Winter Air Access

Harrison Hut is the VOC's most remote hut situated on the far north end of the Pemberton Icecap. Winter access requires up to 40 km of travel on an unplowed forest service road, potentially a river crossing, and a 6 km bushwack skin. Alternatively, it can be access through a multi-day traverse of the Pemberton Icecap from the Rutherford Emergency Shelter, or from Ring Lake in Callaghan Provincial Park. Due to the extremely remote and difficult nature of accessing the hut in winter, the VOC accepts entry and exit access by Helicopter. This is the ONLY INSTANCE of motorized access at ANY of the VOC huts which the VOC accepts and only if there are no non-motorized travelers in the time frame you wish to access the hut. If you intend to access the hut via Helicopter, you MUST register and accept that you are second in priority to any non-motorized travelers. Include the full details of how many are in your party, the dates and times of helicopter access, contact information, and the company you flying in with. In addition, please bring with you your own firewood. The firewood at the hut is collected from treeline alpine and is a very limited resource and by bringing in your own wood we can preserve the wood at the hut for non-motorized users and reduce our overall stress on the environment. If there are ANY conflicts as a result of motorized users willfully abstaining from the procedures set out herein, the VOC will not hesitate to revoke this policy.

Facilities

See also: Hut Inventory

The information on this page is just a snapshot. See the Hut Inventory Page for complete information on tools and materials at the Hut.

Main Floor of Harrison Hut
The loft can sleep about 15 people
Heating Wood stove
Lighting Solar powered LED light
Cooking Two Coleman White Gas Stove and One Propane Coleman Stove
Fire Safety One Fire Extinguisher (1981) with good Pressure and Weight
First Aid Neck Brace, Spine Board, General First Aid kit (updated in winter of 2024)
Sleeping Open floor loft. No pads.
Capacity 15 persons
Drinking water Nearby creek (boil or filter)
Human Waste Outhouse (Use the Aluminum North Outhouse)
Greywater Downhill of hut
Garbage Pack it out

The Hut can sleep 15 friendly people. It has a very efficient wood stove, and is surprisingly cozy and warm. Clothes and boots may be dried. Dead wood for fuel can be obtained from a small forest 50 m away; the use of the stove for the past 15 or so years does not seem to have damaged the forest. If you are using the hut during winter season (usually accessed by helicopter or snowmobile), please bring your own firewood. A Coleman stove and a Coleman lamp are provided, but you have to bring your own fuel (white gas). There is are two outhouses. The one made of plywood is the decommissioned and has been called the "Home Depot" as it is now used to store old timber and plywood that might be useful for projects later. Try not to use what could be useful wood for firewood. Please use the Aluminum Outhouse to the South-West rather than the Home Depot. Water may be obtained from the nearby creek to the North of the Hut. The Logbook is almost full and a new one needs to be brought up. All of the furniture and baseboards were rebuilt in 2017 with the door and floor replacement renovations.

Campfires are PROHIBITED at all VOC huts.
VOC Huts are located in sensitive alpine environments. Follow Leave No Trace principles and please do not make campfires.

If you see someone having a campfire at one of our huts, please report them to information(at)ubc-voc(dot).com.






Library

A collection of books are available at the Harrison Hut for your enjoyment:

Activities

Winter

There are several glaciers within easy ski access from the Hut, and several peaks are nearby, offering suitable destinations for day trips. The Harrison hut is often used as the start or end point of the Pemberton Icefield Ski Traverse

Summer

There are several possibilities for hiking, scrambling and mountaineering in the area. The most popular routes are on Overseer Mountain, Frozen boot, and the Three Stooges.

Frozen Boot (Mount Breshnev) (2579m)

  • The North Ridge is a nice scramble. Mostly hiking with a few class 2-3 steps.
  • The South Ridge is also a class 2-3 scramble, accessed from the col at the top of the Roller Coaster Glacier.

Overseer (2749m)

Overseer is the highest summit on the Pemberton Icefield. In his scrambles guide Matt Gunn describes a route skirting the edge of the Madhorse Glacier and up the South East side as moderate, not to mention giving it three stars (out of a possible three). There are two routes to get to the mountain from the hut. The first option is to ascend to the top of the Roller Coaster Glacier, cross over to the Madhorse Glacier and descend towards Overseer. The other option is to cross the north ridge of Frozen Boot (steep grassy slopes) and come up along the Madhorse Glacier.

  • The South Ridge is a moderately difficult scramble with some loose rock. The rock is better on the ridge crest, but the climbing is more difficult (up to class 3). Difficulties can be avoided (at first on the left, then on the right), but the rock gets much worse away from the ridge.

For climbers, Alpine Select describes a route up the central couloir on the Southwest face and up the headwall as 5.8, with many variations possible (read: possible routefinding difficulties or choose your difficulty, depending on how you look at it)

The Three Stooges (2441m)

The North ridge of The Three Stooges, glaciated on either side, points straight at the hut. Matt Gunn says: two stars, moderate.

Volition (Two Doctors) Peak (2368m)

SW from the hut, a scramble. Bivouac has some beta

Zygo Peak (2623m)

SE from the hut, another scramble. Bivouac has some beta on it too.

Uriah's Heap (2621m)

Another scramble with enough beta from bivouac to make it go.

The Meager Obelisk (2260m)

A 40m rock tower near Volition (Two Doctors) Peak offers a 5.9 fist crack. The first ascent involved two mountaineers luring two craggers from Squamish to act as rope guns. Upon completing the first ascent the craggers immediately top-roped some harder climbs on the same pillar.

Maps

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