Squamish Rock Climbing: Difference between revisions

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Squamish hosts some of the best rock climbing in North America.


A check-list of off-width climbs in Squamish. '''*''': denotes a climb that is great for learning on. You might need to search online or use the McLane guidebook to find beta for some of these climbs.
This page doesn't attempt to replace a guidebook, but rather serves as a quick overview of what type of climbing trips are possible.


== 5.4 ==
== Beginner-friendly top-roping ==
* '''Things to do when it rains*''' - Nursery, Smoke Bluffs | 4"
=== Smoke Bluffs ===
Boasts ''tons'' of top-rope accessible climbs. The climbing here is a mix of excellent splitter cracks and friction slabs. Some of the most popular crags within the area are Neat and Cool, Burgers and Fries, Funarama, Octopus' Garden


== 5.7 ==
=== Murrin Park ===
* '''The Sound of an Old Man Texting''' - Ultraviolet Cliff | ~4"
Many of the crags are top-rope assessable, with some very assessable and beginner friendly crags including Sugarloaf and Bog Wall.
* '''Focus*''' - Bog Wall, Murrin Park | ?


== 5.8 ==
== Sport climbing ==
* '''Pipe Dream*''' - Octopus Gardens, Smoke Bluffs | 4.5"
There's tons of quality sport climbing if you know where to go
* '''Runestone Pinnacle Left''' - Runewall, Smoke Bluffs | 4.5"
* '''Vector''' - The Apron | 5"
* '''Who Need Apps''' - Neat and Cool, Smoke Bluffs (new) | ?


== 5.9 ==
=== Murrin Park ===
* '''Cornflakes Right*''' - Neat and Cool, Smoke Bluffs | 4-5"
Moderate to hard sport, including the famous Petrifying Wall. Lots of trad and mixed routes. Plus a lake to swim at!
* '''March of the Kitchen Utensil''' - Chief Backside | 5"
* '''High and Dry''' - North North Walls | 6-10"
* '''Firewater''' - Longhouse | ?


== 5.10 ==
=== AMO Wall ===
==== A ====
Lovely, well protected, friction slab in the 5.8-5.9 range. Not your typical sport climbing, but no trad gear needed.
* '''Tantalus Wall (p3 "Tantalus Crack")''' - Tantalus Wall | 4.5"
* '''Kneewrecker Chimney''' - Grand Wall | 4.5"
* '''The Edge (lower)''' - Neat and Cool, Smoke Bluffs | ?
==== B ====
* '''Split Beaver*''' - Split Beaver, Smoke Bluffs | 4-5"
* '''Berrycup (p2)''' - Lower Malamute | 5"
* '''Angels Crest (var p8)''' - Sheriffs Badge | 7"
* '''Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side''' - Tantalus Wall | +7"
==== C ====
* '''Fissure Flavelle (p2)''' - Above and Beyond | 5"
* '''Nuclear Arms''' - Bulletheads South | ?
==== D ====
* '''Pipeline''' - Squaw | 8-9"
* '''Borderline (p4,5)''' - Sheriffs Badge | Bolted


== 5.11 ==
=== Area 44 / The Pillary ===
==== A ====
Lots of reasonably bolted easy-to-moderate sport climbing. A decent number of 5.9s, a few lower grades and LOTS of 10s.
* '''Liquid Gold''' - Bulletheads | 4.5"
* '''Squeamishness''' - The Squaw | 5"
* '''Hypertension''' - Murrin Park | 6"
* '''Leubben or Leave It''' - Longhouse | ?
==== B ====
* '''Boogie Till you Puke''' - Chief Backside | 6-7"
* '''The Scimitar''' - Chief Backside | 7-9"
* '''P.G Tips''' - Longhouse | ?
==== C ====
* '''Mushy Peas (p3,4)''' - South Gully | 7"
==== D ====
* '''Nanook''' - North North Walls | 6"


== 5.12 ==
=== Cheakamus Canyon ===
==== A ====
A giant area with tons of sport, ranging from 5.8 multipitch climbs all the way up to 5.14. Allows for no-cost car-camping and campfires.
* '''Polaris''' - North Walls | 4.5"
 
* '''Gorillas in the Mist''' - Sheriffs Badge | 7"
== Trad climbing ==
You're a trad climber? Welcome to paradise. Rather than list where you should go, let's just say that Area 44 and Cheakamus have barely any trad. Everywhere else has absolutely stellar climbing. Do a bunch of top-100 single pitch climbs in Murrin or the Bluffs, or do some awesome multi-pitch climbs up the Chief.
 
[[Squamish Offwidth]]
 
[[Category:Climbing]]
[[Category:Trip Ideas]]

Latest revision as of 21:43, 10 June 2016

Squamish hosts some of the best rock climbing in North America.

This page doesn't attempt to replace a guidebook, but rather serves as a quick overview of what type of climbing trips are possible.

Beginner-friendly top-roping

Smoke Bluffs

Boasts tons of top-rope accessible climbs. The climbing here is a mix of excellent splitter cracks and friction slabs. Some of the most popular crags within the area are Neat and Cool, Burgers and Fries, Funarama, Octopus' Garden

Murrin Park

Many of the crags are top-rope assessable, with some very assessable and beginner friendly crags including Sugarloaf and Bog Wall.

Sport climbing

There's tons of quality sport climbing if you know where to go

Murrin Park

Moderate to hard sport, including the famous Petrifying Wall. Lots of trad and mixed routes. Plus a lake to swim at!

AMO Wall

Lovely, well protected, friction slab in the 5.8-5.9 range. Not your typical sport climbing, but no trad gear needed.

Area 44 / The Pillary

Lots of reasonably bolted easy-to-moderate sport climbing. A decent number of 5.9s, a few lower grades and LOTS of 10s.

Cheakamus Canyon

A giant area with tons of sport, ranging from 5.8 multipitch climbs all the way up to 5.14. Allows for no-cost car-camping and campfires.

Trad climbing

You're a trad climber? Welcome to paradise. Rather than list where you should go, let's just say that Area 44 and Cheakamus have barely any trad. Everywhere else has absolutely stellar climbing. Do a bunch of top-100 single pitch climbs in Murrin or the Bluffs, or do some awesome multi-pitch climbs up the Chief.

Squamish Offwidth