Skaha

View from Skaha Lake of Skaha Bluffs, Penticton, BC.

Introduction

Skaha is a rock climbing area located near Penticton, BC, in the Okanagan Valley. It is generally pretty dry, making it a common destination for times of the year when Squamish is a little soggy. The VOC usually runs a trip there around Halloween. Skaha has climbs at all levels, in both the traditional and sport styles. There is also a lot of top-roping possibilities for beginners.

The club has some guidebooks for this area, including "Skaha Rockclimbs" by Howie Richardson.

There is only one way to access the bluffs legally, and it involves paying to park on a private farm. This fee is around $5/day per car but could have changed. The access situation is complicated, and constantly in flux, so do your best not to annoy the locals and hopefully things will continue to work. The land owners have graciously donated their land so please respect the area. Please do NOT block private driveways and do NOT park on the roadside.

Directions

From Vancouver take the #1 east to Hope. At Hope, you have two options: 1) Taking the #5 Coquihalla saves 40 minutes but costs a $10 toll. 2) Taking #3 is adviseable because we're all poor students. Take #3 east towards Princeton and keep going past Princeton to Keremeos. At Keremeos take #3A north towards Pentiction, joining the #97 north for the final few kilometers along Skaha Lake into Penticton.

Directions from Vancouver to Skaha (Penticton, BC). Notice the two possible routes.

To reach the bluffs, take Valleyview Road south to the very end at the Braeside Farm parking lot. (Notice the green arrow on the map)

Location of Skaha Bluffs in Penticton, BC (Green Arrow)

Camping

Fuller's still investigating possible camp sites and the availability of the Stather's orchard.

Food

We typically celebrate Halloween in style and have a potluck dinner on Saturday night. Otherwise take care of your own food or organize something within your car group. Penticton has lots of grocery stores so don't worry if you forget something.

Climbing

This is one of the best sport climbing destinations in BC and has lots to offer for trad, sport, and top roping. Here's a short list.

Beginner-friendly walls

• Fern Gully (5.6 to 5.9, don't know about top-rope access),
  
• Go Anywhere (5.7 to 5.9, with access for top-roping),
  
• Far Away (5.6 to 5.10b with access for top-roping),
  
• Red Tail Wall lower tier (large with 5.8 to 5.10a, most have access for top-roping)
  
• Another Buttress (large with 5.6 to 5.9, access for top-roping)
  
• Claim It All Wall (Mostly 5.10 sport, with 5.8 and 5.9 also, lots of routes)
  
• Doctor's Wall (Slighty overhanging wall, with 5.11+ sport)
  
• The Fortress (lots of climbs in 5.10-5.11 grade)
  

Fun Routes

• The Dream 5.9 gear (Redtail, The Turret)
  
• The Raven and the Bear 5.9 sport (Raven's Castle)
  
• Plum Line 5.9 sport (East Fortress)
  
• Ready to Strike 5.10a gear (Diamondback)
  
• Grassy Glades 5.10a gear (Grassy Glades)
  
• Assholes of August 5.9 gear (Red Tail Upper)
  
• Brilliant Pebbles 5.10c sport (Grassy Glades)
  
• Double Exposure 5.8 gear (East Portal)
  

Note: Sometimes it can rain when you are outside. If it does, there is a cave at Cave Hill to explore, but remember to bring a headlamp and helmet.

What to bring

As with most trips you should have an adequate sleeping bag, tent, means to cook (i.e. stove or someone to share with), food, and appropriate clothing. If you don't have a tent try to find one within your car group to share. If you don't have a stove, bring something delicious to bribe someone and they'll let you share. You should all own sleeping bags by now.
Don't forget to have something for the Saturday night potluck dinner. Mmmm I can't wait.
At this time of the year, Penticton is pretty chilly with daytime temperatures averaging 14˚C and night-time often dropping below 273 Kelvin (also known as 0˚C, for all the non-nerds out there). Keep this in mind when packing clothing.

Skaha Trip 2006

Oct. 28-29-30(?), 2006

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Cars

If you have space in your car, please post the spots. Passengers pay for gas. If you have a rope and/or rack, please indicate so that we can try and even out people with gear into cars with less gear.

• Jordan Tam (# spots) [rope,rack]{departure - arrival]

1. Fuller! [rope, quickdraws]
   
2. Richard! [quarter rack]
   
3. Alex [rope, quarter rack]
   

• Drivers Name (# spots) [rope,rack]{departure - arrival]

1. person #1
   
2. person #2
   
3. person #3
   
4. person #4
   

External Links

• Skaha Web Page