Archive:2009 Brian Waddington hut renovations

Projects

Double pane the windows

Maybe also add screens for summer mosquito repulsion?

Paint the inside walls

Maybe use a marine stain (like what they use for wooden boats?) for the beams and off-white mistint all mixed together for everything else?

Move the outhouse

Notes

The outhouse is getting full. Renovation includes (1) deciding if it is full yet, and if so, (2) looking for a new site that will not drain into the lake but is still close enough to be used, (3) digging a really big hole that will last for years but hopefully not hit water. (4) Carefully taking apart the outhouse and carrying the pieces to the new site (5) Assembling the outhouse (6) We are done, but we should carry out any debris from previous failed outhouse attempts. None of this should be costly. Re-painting is probably not a priority.

Increase ventilation

More vents? Bigger vents? Vents in floor to allow (slightly) pre-warmed air to come in from basement? Something exotic (Nelson and Roland are thinking some exotic thoughts).

Notes

The vent holes were 5" in diameter.

Other measurements, while I'm looking at this ready-to-be-lost piece of paper:

Windows could be plexiglassed on the inside fairly easily. Requires: 4x 29.5" x 41.5" 2x 29.5" x 31.5" 1x 25.5" x 25.5" And some clips around the outside (bathroom mirror style). Note that the glass can't much bigger, otherwise it will interfere with the latches. Can't be much smaller either. The plexiglass will be right on frame/retainer interface (ie - the same size as the glass), so clips with some length would be good so they are further from the edge (reduce chance of splitting). Pre-drill the holes.

Measured from the inside, accurate enough to figure out how much paint we need:

• Main Floor:

Length of hut - 7.3m Width of hut - 3.9m Length of vestibule - 1.8m Height above wainscoting - 1.8m Ceiling height - 3m

Beams are 24" around (8" against wall or 6" free standing): 10x 3m 20x 1.2m 20x 3.9m

Unpainted table - 3'x6' 2x Unpainted benches - 1'x5'

• Loft:

Length of hut - 7.3m Width of hut - 3.9m Length of 'roof/wall' - 3.6m Length of vestibule - 2.2m (yes longer than downstairs - it's not as high and the roof slopes) Length of 'roof/wall' in vestibule - 2.3m

Beams are 24" around 8x 3.6m 20x 1.5m

Other thoughts: More mallion and chain for lanterns trim for messy paint jobs? paint the ladders? floor appears to be sealed already - should we do it again? outside paint seems to be alright - should we do it again? railing for upstairs traverse to honeymoon suite? (2x1.6m posts, 2x1.6m rails) plexiglass on inside better - glass absorbs UV without turning opaque. The "Brian Waddington Hut" wood sign is still only half complete. A chisel could fix this quickly. Vents suck, and only sort-of open. Maybe a simple tube, pointing down, that cannot be closed, would be good. Or supply a cap which can be taken on/off - this would be less confusing than the 'rotate 180 degrees and wonder whether it was open or closed to start with' vents we have now. Plastic probably gathers less condensation than metal. Roof doesn't appear to be leaking enough to see it inside anymore, probably could still use some repair.

When deciding how much to do, we need to keep in mind whether is it a helicopter job or a carry in job. In my mind (and probably the club's budget this summer) it is a carry-in job. We can still make the required big improvements carry-in style, but maybe won't have enough man-power to carry enough paint for both inside and outside. I guess we'll see. Probably a good way to do it would be to conscript some porters for a work weekend and a small number of people to stick around for a few extra days.

Also, the hut seemed plenty warm with just the two catalytic heaters and 11 people (there were some french people up there too. The big catalytic is harder to light (you're supposed to use some alcohol-based priming fluid, which we did not have). Not Brew Hut warm, but I had to unzip my sleeping bag.