Squamish Rock Climbing: Difference between revisions

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Squamish hosts some of the best rock climbing in North America.
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This page doesn't attempt to replace a guidebook, but rather serves as a quick overview of what type of climbing trips are possible.
A check-list of off-width climbs in Squamish. A * denotes a climb that is great for learning on (i.e can be top-roped easily).
== 5.4 ==
* *Thinks to do when it rains - Smoke Bluffs | 4"


== Beginner-friendly top-roping ==
== 5.7 ==
=== Smoke Bluffs ===
* *The Sound of an Old Man Texting - Ultraviolet Cliff | ~4"
Boasts ''tons'' of top-rope accessible climbs. The climbing here is a mix of excellent splitter cracks and friction slabs. Some of the most popular crags within the area are Neat and Cool, Burgers and Fries, Funarama, Octopus' Garden
* *Focus - Bog Wall Murrin Park | ?


=== Murrin Park ===
== 5.8 ==
Many of the crags are top-rope assessable, with some very assessable and beginner friendly crags including Sugarloaf and Bog Wall.
* *Pipe Dream - Smoke Bluffs | 4.5"
* Runestone Pinnacle Left - Smoke Bluffs | 4.5"
* Vector - The Apron | 5"
* Who Need Apps - Smoke Bluffs (new) | ?


== Sport climbing ==
== 5.9 ==
There's tons of quality sport climbing if you know where to go
* *Cornflakes Right - Smoke Bluffs | 4-5"
* March of the Kitchen Utensil - Chief Backside | 5"
* High and Dry - North North Walls | 6-10"
* Firewater - Longhouse | ?


=== Murrin Park ===
== 5.10 ==
Moderate to hard sport, including the famous Petrifying Wall. Lots of trad and mixed routes. Plus a lake to swim at!
==== A ====
* Tantalus Wall (p3) - Tantalus Wall | 4.5"
* Kneewrecker Chimney - Grand Wall | 4.5"
* The Edge - Smoke Bluffs | ?
==== B ====
* *Split Beaver - Smoke Bluffs | 4-5"0
* Berrycup (p2) - Lower Malamute | 5"
* Angels Crest (var p8) - Sheriffs Badge | 7"
* Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side - Tantalus Wall | +7"
==== C ====
* Fissure Flavelle (p2) - Above and Beyond | 5"
* Nuclear Arms - Bulletheads South | ?
==== D ====
* Pipeline - Squaw | 8-9"
* Borderline (p4,5) - Sheriffs Badge | Bolted


=== AMO Wall ===
== 5.11 ==
Lovely, well protected, friction slab in the 5.8-5.9 range. Not your typical sport climbing, but no trad gear needed.
==== A ====
* Liquid Gold - Bulletheads | 4.5"
* Squeamishness - The Squaw | 5"
* Hypertension - Murrin Park | 6"
* Leubben or Leave It - Longhouse | ?
==== B ====
* Boogie Till you Puke - Chief Backside | 6-7"
* The Scimitar - Chief Backside | 7-9"
* P.G Tips - Longhouse | ?
==== C ====
* Mushy Peas (p3,4) - South Gully | 7"
==== D ====
* Nanook - North North Walls | 6"


=== Area 44 / The Pillary ===
== 5.12 ==
Lots of reasonably bolted easy-to-moderate sport climbing. A decent number of 5.9s, a few lower grades and LOTS of 10s.
==== A ====
 
* Polaris - North Walls | 4.5"
=== Cheakamus Canyon ===
* Gorillas in the Mist - Sheriffs Badge | 7"
A giant area with tons of sport, ranging from 5.8 multipitch climbs all the way up to 5.14. Allows for no-cost car-camping and campfires.
 
== Trad climbing ==
You're a trad climber? Welcome to paradise. Rather than list where you should go, let's just say that Area 44 and Cheakamus have barely any trad. Everywhere else has absolutely stellar climbing. Do a bunch of top-100 single pitch climbs in Murrin or the Bluffs, or do some awesome multi-pitch climbs up the Chief.
 
[[Category:Climbing]]
[[Category:Trip Ideas]]

Revision as of 21:20, 10 June 2016


A check-list of off-width climbs in Squamish. A * denotes a climb that is great for learning on (i.e can be top-roped easily).

5.4

  • *Thinks to do when it rains - Smoke Bluffs | 4"

5.7

  • *The Sound of an Old Man Texting - Ultraviolet Cliff | ~4"
  • *Focus - Bog Wall Murrin Park | ?

5.8

  • *Pipe Dream - Smoke Bluffs | 4.5"
  • Runestone Pinnacle Left - Smoke Bluffs | 4.5"
  • Vector - The Apron | 5"
  • Who Need Apps - Smoke Bluffs (new) | ?

5.9

  • *Cornflakes Right - Smoke Bluffs | 4-5"
  • March of the Kitchen Utensil - Chief Backside | 5"
  • High and Dry - North North Walls | 6-10"
  • Firewater - Longhouse | ?

5.10

A

  • Tantalus Wall (p3) - Tantalus Wall | 4.5"
  • Kneewrecker Chimney - Grand Wall | 4.5"
  • The Edge - Smoke Bluffs | ?

B

  • *Split Beaver - Smoke Bluffs | 4-5"0
  • Berrycup (p2) - Lower Malamute | 5"
  • Angels Crest (var p8) - Sheriffs Badge | 7"
  • Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side - Tantalus Wall | +7"

C

  • Fissure Flavelle (p2) - Above and Beyond | 5"
  • Nuclear Arms - Bulletheads South | ?

D

  • Pipeline - Squaw | 8-9"
  • Borderline (p4,5) - Sheriffs Badge | Bolted

5.11

A

  • Liquid Gold - Bulletheads | 4.5"
  • Squeamishness - The Squaw | 5"
  • Hypertension - Murrin Park | 6"
  • Leubben or Leave It - Longhouse | ?

B

  • Boogie Till you Puke - Chief Backside | 6-7"
  • The Scimitar - Chief Backside | 7-9"
  • P.G Tips - Longhouse | ?

C

  • Mushy Peas (p3,4) - South Gully | 7"

D

  • Nanook - North North Walls | 6"

5.12

A

  • Polaris - North Walls | 4.5"
  • Gorillas in the Mist - Sheriffs Badge | 7"
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