Archive:Brew Hut Rebuild/Finish the hut: Difference between revisions

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Updated with results from September 24-25 workhike
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==Paint / weatherproof and final coat (medium priority)==
==Paint / weatherproof and final coat (medium priority)==
* Paint window and door frames, one more coat needed.
There's about 5 liters of the white/blue/yellow/lingerie that we have been using on the walls.  This is probably enough to do everything upstairs and downstairs a second coat.  (What about the window trim?  See below)


There is an unused 8 inch roller up there.  It will be challenging to remove the dead roller from the cage; a sturdy sharp knife might be used or it might be sawed off.
*There is an unused 8 inch roller up there.


There's about 2 liters of downstairs (industrial) floor paint (concrete colour).  This should be enough to do the cracks in the floor liberally (2x?), plus another coat in the high traffic areas.  This will work better after the floor has dried a bit more and is swept very clean.  We have two, 4 inch rollers up there, which work well for the cracks, and for the coat in the high traffic areas.
*There's about 2 liters of downstairs (industrial) floor paint (concrete colour).  This should be enough to do the cracks in the floor liberally (2x?), plus another coat in the high traffic areas.  This will work better after the floor has dried a bit more and is swept very clean.  We have two, 4 inch rollers up there, which work well for the cracks, and for the coat in the high traffic areas.


There's about 3 1/2 liters of pale sand or pale concrete industrial paint which can be used for the outdoors window ledges and window frames, a couple more coats if this looks necessary.  Then what is left over could be rolled onto the floor upstairs.  This will make the floor colour lighter overall, but this is not a bad thing.
*There's about 3 1/2 liters of pale sand or pale concrete industrial paint which can be used for the outdoors window ledges and window frames, a couple more coats if this looks necessary.  Then what is left over could be rolled onto the floor upstairs.  This will make the floor colour lighter overall, but this is not a bad thing.


Finally there's the sickly yellowish trim paint (about a liter), which can be applied to the window trim boards on the outside, and inside as well, if that's what we want.  Or the inside trim boards can be painted same as the walls, to look inconspicuous.  This makes the whole thing look bigger.  This can may have issues because the lid may not seal properly though I beat on it with a hammer for a while.
*There's the sickly yellowish trim paint (about a liter), which can be applied to the window trim boards on the outside, and inside as well, if that's what we want.  This paint is really ugly, and should only be used as a base coat if painting for it with something else.  This can may have issues because the lid may not seal properly though I beat on it with a hammer for a while.


There's a liter of paint thinner/solvent up there, for whatever purpose.
*There 1/3 of a 1L can of bright yellow, plus another unopenned 1L can of the same.  This paint is for interior and exterior trim boards.  They don't need to be painted again anytime soon.


Note that the industrial paint must be applied in a strong wind with the windows open, and the hut vacated for at least 12 hours after, so should be done just before departing for the city.  Once applied, the windows do not need to be left open.
*There's part of a liter of paint thinner/solvent up there, for whatever purpose.


Anybody intending to finish the painting should bring up an 8 inch roller and a disposable brush.  And a rag for dusting.
*Note that the industrial paint must be applied in a strong wind with the windows open, and the hut vacated for at least 12 hours after, so should be done just before departing for the city.  Once applied, the windows do not need to be left open.


I might bring family/friends up there some time in the next 3 weeks, and I might apply paint before leaving, though don't count on me, and if somebody else wants the job, go for it.
*Anybody intending to finish the painting should bring up a disposable brush.  And a rag for dusting.
 
*There's 2 small unopened tubes of dynaflex 230 caulking.  The only joints which have not yet been overzealously caulked are the joints between the sheet metal and J trim on the sides of the windows.


==Downstairs (medium priority)==
==Downstairs (medium priority)==
* Cut plywood pieces to go at top of walls for insulating top of walls (complete, but pieces need to be carried up to the hut).  Insulate the cavity, seal it off and put plywood over top.
* Build a permanent ladder to go upstairs.  Currently using one of the construction ladders which is ok, but not great.  Could use the old brew hut ladder for this, but need to make it narrower.  The old ladder has been hauled up to the hut for this purpose.
* Haul up the bench #1, which is down at the old hut.
 
* Build a permanent ladder to go upstairs.  Currently using one of the construction ladders which is ok, but not great.  Could use the old brew hut ladder for this, possibly making it narrower.
*Door and window trim boards have been removed for painting and await reinstallation.  Note that for the windows the open, the lower board board has been shortened a bit.  This means that the old nail holes won't work.
 
*Shorten the table legs by 2-3 inches.


==Attic walls (complete)==
==Attic walls (complete)==


==Heater & stovepipe (medium priority)==
==Heater & stovepipe (medium priority)==
* Point where chimney goes through the roof needs to be insulated and sealed against drafts.  There may be issues here with wind blowing water underneath the chimney flashing and into the hole in the roof.
* Point where chimney goes through the roof needs to be insulated and sealed against drafts on the inside.
* The metal sheet under the stove needs to be secured to the floor.  Making a rounded wood moulding to fit around the metal sheet is probably the best option (to avoid catching your booties on the edge).  A wooden edge has been made by Scott Nelson to delineate an area for drying out boots, and keep water from melted snow at bay.  The metal pad is exactly 48 inches by 48 inches and is 3/32 of an inch thick.
 
* The metal sheet under the stove needs to be secured to the floor.  A moulding is at the hut and awaiting installation


==Miscellaneous (low priority)==
==Miscellaneous (low priority)==
* Put rocks and/or wire mesh at the side of the Hut to keep wolverines from crawling under it.
* Put rocks and/or wire mesh at the side of the Hut to keep wolverines from crawling under it.
* The downstairs hinged window needs a restraint to keep it from openning all the way.  When this window opens, it hits the trim boards quite close to the hinges.  This puts a lot of torque on the edge of the window sash near the hinges, and has already damaged the window sash (repaired).  To prevent further damage, a cord or chain should be installed to limit the maximum openning of this window so that it doesn't hit the trim board.  Parts have been purchased for making this.  They will be installed soon.
* A small front porch or stairs would be nice.  We have the wood as there is some pressure treated lumber and deck board up there to concoct some sort of porch and/or stairs leading up to the door. There are also some nice joists in the old hut that would be great for making stairs. Alternatively, these could be made out of stone, but that's a lot of work.
* A small front porch or stairs would be nice.  We have the wood as there is some pressure treated lumber and deck board up there to concoct some sort of porch and/or stairs leading up to the door. There are also some nice joists in the old hut that would be great for making stairs. Alternatively, these could be made out of stone, but that's a lot of work.
* Door ramp - it would be nice to add a small ramp to the door to make it easier to sweep dirt and snow out of the hut.  This has been bulit by Scott Nelson and will be brought in soone.
* Door ramp - it would be nice to add a small ramp to the door to make it easier to sweep dirt and snow out of the hut.  This has been bulit by Scott Nelson and will be brought in soone.
* Woodshed
* Woodshed
* Coat hooks for hanging jackets, food, packs, etc. They have been purchased and need to be installed strategically.
* Coat hooks for hanging jackets, food, packs, etc. 12 have been installed above the stove, the others are pending.  Pre - drill with a 1/8" drill bit or else the brass screws for the coat hooks will get snapped off in the dense wood of the floor joists.
* Create signs about the brew hut (and how to send us money) and get them laminated. Also need some new maps for the walls (NTS and TRIM), which should also be laminated.  
* Create signs about the brew hut (and how to send us money) and get them laminated. Also need some new maps for the walls (NTS and TRIM), which should also be laminated.  
* Clean up any building debris, ie MicroBrew, and convert it into firewood.
* Clean up any building debris, ie MicroBrew, and convert it into firewood.
* Get a hut logbook.
* Get a hut logbook.

Revision as of 14:52, 26 September 2005

Sheet metal work (complete)

Paint / weatherproof and final coat (medium priority)

  • There is an unused 8 inch roller up there.
  • There's about 2 liters of downstairs (industrial) floor paint (concrete colour). This should be enough to do the cracks in the floor liberally (2x?), plus another coat in the high traffic areas. This will work better after the floor has dried a bit more and is swept very clean. We have two, 4 inch rollers up there, which work well for the cracks, and for the coat in the high traffic areas.
  • There's about 3 1/2 liters of pale sand or pale concrete industrial paint which can be used for the outdoors window ledges and window frames, a couple more coats if this looks necessary. Then what is left over could be rolled onto the floor upstairs. This will make the floor colour lighter overall, but this is not a bad thing.
  • There's the sickly yellowish trim paint (about a liter), which can be applied to the window trim boards on the outside, and inside as well, if that's what we want. This paint is really ugly, and should only be used as a base coat if painting for it with something else. This can may have issues because the lid may not seal properly though I beat on it with a hammer for a while.
  • There 1/3 of a 1L can of bright yellow, plus another unopenned 1L can of the same. This paint is for interior and exterior trim boards. They don't need to be painted again anytime soon.
  • There's part of a liter of paint thinner/solvent up there, for whatever purpose.
  • Note that the industrial paint must be applied in a strong wind with the windows open, and the hut vacated for at least 12 hours after, so should be done just before departing for the city. Once applied, the windows do not need to be left open.
  • Anybody intending to finish the painting should bring up a disposable brush. And a rag for dusting.
  • There's 2 small unopened tubes of dynaflex 230 caulking. The only joints which have not yet been overzealously caulked are the joints between the sheet metal and J trim on the sides of the windows.

Downstairs (medium priority)

  • Build a permanent ladder to go upstairs. Currently using one of the construction ladders which is ok, but not great. Could use the old brew hut ladder for this, but need to make it narrower. The old ladder has been hauled up to the hut for this purpose.
  • Door and window trim boards have been removed for painting and await reinstallation. Note that for the windows the open, the lower board board has been shortened a bit. This means that the old nail holes won't work.
  • Shorten the table legs by 2-3 inches.

Attic walls (complete)

Heater & stovepipe (medium priority)

  • Point where chimney goes through the roof needs to be insulated and sealed against drafts on the inside.
  • The metal sheet under the stove needs to be secured to the floor. A moulding is at the hut and awaiting installation

Miscellaneous (low priority)

  • Put rocks and/or wire mesh at the side of the Hut to keep wolverines from crawling under it.
  • A small front porch or stairs would be nice. We have the wood as there is some pressure treated lumber and deck board up there to concoct some sort of porch and/or stairs leading up to the door. There are also some nice joists in the old hut that would be great for making stairs. Alternatively, these could be made out of stone, but that's a lot of work.
  • Door ramp - it would be nice to add a small ramp to the door to make it easier to sweep dirt and snow out of the hut. This has been bulit by Scott Nelson and will be brought in soone.
  • Woodshed
  • Coat hooks for hanging jackets, food, packs, etc. 12 have been installed above the stove, the others are pending. Pre - drill with a 1/8" drill bit or else the brass screws for the coat hooks will get snapped off in the dense wood of the floor joists.
  • Create signs about the brew hut (and how to send us money) and get them laminated. Also need some new maps for the walls (NTS and TRIM), which should also be laminated.
  • Clean up any building debris, ie MicroBrew, and convert it into firewood.
  • Get a hut logbook.
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