Skaha

View from Skaha Lake of Skaha Bluffs, Penticton, BC.

Introduction

Skaha is a rock climbing area located near Penticton, BC, in the Okanagan Valley. It is generally pretty dry, making it a common destination for times of the year when Squamish is a little soggy. The VOC usually runs a trip there around Halloween. Skaha has climbs at all levels, in both the traditional and sport styles. There is also a lot of top-roping possibilities for beginners.

The club has some guidebooks for this area, including "Skaha Rockclimbs" by Howie Richardson.

There is only one way to access the bluffs legally, and it involves paying to park on a private farm. This fee is around $4/day per person but could have changed. The access situation is complicated, and constantly in flux, so do your best not to annoy the locals and hopefully things will continue to work. The land owners have graciously donated their land so please respect the area. Please do NOT block private driveways and do NOT park on the roadside.

Directions

Directions from Vancouver to Skaha (Penticton, BC). Notice the two possible routes.

Directions from UBC to Skaha Bluffs (Penticton, BC) with Google Maps via Hwy 3

From Vancouver take the #1 east to Hope. At Hope, you have two options: 1) Taking the #5 Coquihalla saves 40 minutes but costs a $10 toll. 2) Taking #3 is adviseable because we're all poor students. Take #3 east towards Princeton and keep going past Princeton to Keremeos. At Keremeos take #3A north towards Pentiction, joining the #97 north for the final few kilometers along Skaha Lake into Penticton. Estimated time: 6 hours by the longer but toll-less route.

The old private parking lot is closed forever, the land for a new permanent access was bought in 2008. A new access route is being worked out for the spring of 2008, but no news on the details so far.

Climbing

Location of Skaha Bluffs in Penticton, BC (Green Arrow)

This is one of the best sport climbing destinations in BC and has lots to offer for trad, sport, and top roping. Here's a short list.

Beginner-friendly walls

• Fern Gully (5.6 to 5.9, don't know about top-rope access),
  
• Go Anywhere (5.7 to 5.9, with access for top-roping),
  
• Far Away (5.6 to 5.10b with access for top-roping),
  
• Red Tail Wall lower tier (large with 5.8 to 5.10a, most have access for top-roping)
  
• Another Buttress (large with 5.6 to 5.9, access for top-roping)
  
• Claim It All Wall (Mostly 5.10 sport, with 5.8 and 5.9 also, lots of routes)
  
• Doctor's Wall (Slighty overhanging wall, with 5.11+ sport)
  
• The Fortress (lots of climbs in 5.10-5.11 grade)
  

Fun Routes

• The Dream 5.9 gear (Redtail, The Turret)
  
• The Raven and the Bear 5.9 sport (Raven's Castle)
  
• Plum Line 5.9 sport (East Fortress)
  
• Ready to Strike 5.10a gear (Diamondback)
  
• Grassy Glades 5.10a gear (Grassy Glades)
  
• Assholes of August 5.9 gear (Red Tail Upper)
  
• Brilliant Pebbles 5.10c sport (Grassy Glades)
  
• Double Exposure 5.8 gear (East Portal)
  

Note: Sometimes it can rain when you are outside. If it does, there is a cave at Cave Hill to explore, but remember to bring a headlamp and helmet.

Upcoming Trips

October 27^th - 28^th, 2007: Skaha Trip 2007

Past Trips

Skaha Trip 2007
Skaha Trip 2006

External Links

• Skaha Web Page