Europa

Europa

Introduction

Europa has the potential to be the most beginner-friendly full-height climb on the Chief. It follows a line roughly parallel to Crap Crags, chosen to follow the best modern line, rather than the original Crap Crags line. An earlier edition of Kevin McLane's Climbers' Guide to Squamish claims that if the climb were restored to its 7000 BC condition, immediately after the glaciers left, but before the vegetation came, it would be the most popular long climb on the Chief. The current edition of the guide encourages cleaning of the route. The goal is to have the route ready for late summer 2007.

Cleaning in Squamish

In most climbing areas, gardening (the removal of plant life from climbs) is considered unethical, for a variety of reasons. Many climbing areas are parks, where any impact from climbers is frowned upon, and many climbing areas are much more arid, where plant life is more fragile and takes much longer to grow. This is not true in Squamish. Most of the climbs that we now enjoy are the result of the removal of dirt and shrubs from cracks. This does not draw ire for a number of reasons: plant removal can quickly be reversed in the Squamish climate, with nature reclaiming some cleaned climbs in as little as a year. Further, there is no lack of vegetation in general. If there is a shortage of anything, it is definitely bare rock. Lastly, despite the best efforts of numerous climbers, photos of the Chief from previous decades clearly demonstrate that the trees are defeating the climbers and are steadily taking over the Chief faster than we can clean it.

Why Clean at All, if the Vegetation is Going to Win?

Cleaning a climb that will not get climbed by others might be a wasted effort, as without steady climbing, the dirt will find its way back into the climb quickly. It is a different story on popular climbs, though. Once they are opened up, the act of climbing keeps the dirt and vegetation at bay. If a climb is genuinely worth cleaning, it will stay clean.

Main Topo

Zoom photos of the route show each pitch:

Pitch 1

Pitch 2

Pitch 3

Pitch 4

Pitch 5

Pitch 6

Pitch 7

Pitch-by-Pitch route description

Pitch 1

No work has been done on the first pitch. Pitch 1 is 55m long, following grooves with finger and hand cracks. 50m

Pitch 2

Finger and hand cracks up corners and grooves, followed by 5m of large blocks. Currently contains a lot of dirt. 45m

Pitch 3

The pitch heads up a short chimney, and traverses left to a single, very nice crack. The top two thirds of this pitch is mostly done, needing some root removal and a final scrubbing.

40m

Pitch 4

This pitch starts with a large and very helpful tree that provides a route up what would otherwise be a section that is stiffer than the climb is supposed to be. Past the tree, some down-climbing is required before a traverse to the right, and up a blocky section. The blocky section contains some dirt and smallish blocks.

People should be aware that if there is water flowing off the Chief in general, then there will be a large amount pouring onto the tree at the start of pitch 4. There is a roof that you can hide under after rapping to the bottom of the tree, but you will be showered until you get there.

30m

Pitch 5

This starts with a giant belay tree. The pitch goes right and up along a big ramp. Two large areas of dirt remain.

50m

Pitch 6

Pitch 6 is now done except for a final dust-off. The pitch starts with a short bolt ladder, and follows an easy crack up to the chimney.

35m

Pitch 7

This pitch starts at the end of the parallel cracks of pitch 6, and follows an easy chimney to the top of the climb.

Pitch 7 is now done.

45m

And Beyond?

Immediately at the top of Europa is a third-class trail to the start of Shaved Bum (.12a) and Colon (3p .8, .8, .9). A scrubbing of Colon could provide a moderate link-up to the top.

Personnel

If you are interested in working on any aspect of the Europa project, please put your name in the list here. Any work on Europa will be considered a workhike.

• Jeff Mottershead
• Scott Webster
• Ben Singleton-Polster
• Stephen Mullen
• Bram Van Straaten
• Seth Adams
• Kaja Sadowski
• Duncan McPhedran
• Julie Patrick
• Christian Champagne
• Christian Sampaleanu
• Christian Veenstra
• Matt Breakey
• Piotr Forysinski
• Eva Wingren
• Natalie Stafl
• Yanna Martinek
• Leah Nurmi
• Mark Chui
• Cynthia Thomson
• Matthew Carroll
• Andrew Pare
• Vince Johnson
• Meghan Anderson
• Matthew Baker
• Jill Nemeth
• Charlie Caunt
• Miriam Barrueto
• Urszula Paleczek

Funding

The following organizations and people have help to fund the project:

• Varsity Outdoors Club--$2000
• Jeff Mottershead (VOC)--$2000
• Alpine Club of Canada, Vancouver Chapter--$500
• Scott Nelson and Sandra Nicol (VOC)--$300
• Christian Veenstra (VOC)--$100
• Piotr Forysinski (VOC)--$100
• Peter and Silke Gumplinger (BCMC)--$100
• Matthew Carroll (VOC)--$100
• Neil Beattie--$100
• Bob Woodhouse (BCMC)--$80
• Margaret Hanson (BCMC)--$60
• Brian Wood (BCMC)--$60
• Steve Mullen (VOC)--$50
• Joanna Kolakowska (VOC)--$20
• Bruce Cassels (BCMC)--$20
• Other BCMC members--$300
• Other VOC members--$24
• Squamish Mountain Festival participants--$70
• Raphael Tsen and Cathy Choiniki--$10
• Climb-On customers--$40

Donations can also be given at Climb-On in Squamish.

If you wish to donate to the project by mail, please send a cheque to:

Jeff Mottershead
1990 W 6th Ave
#307
Vancouver, BC
V6J 4V4

Jeff Mottershead has spent about $6000 more than he has received on the project. He intends to contribute the $2000 listed above. The remaining $4000 is currently out of a loan, eating interest. Financial aid is needed and appreciated.

Non-Monetary Donations

• Climb-On--supplies rope and other equipment to the project at cost
• Scott Webster--has lent his car to the project for many weeks
• Krystil Koethler--donated a rope
• Mike Young--allowed indefinite use of his tools
• Christian Veenstra--donated some cleaning tools