Trail building

This page is supposed to be a repository of past experiences (what works and what doesn't) for trail building.

Route Planning and Flagging

Setting the route for the trail is an iterative process and could take a few tries to get it exactly right, especially if both summer and winter use are expected. Winter only trails must also consider variations in snowpack depth - i.e. early season vs late season use. A deep snowpack is ideal for setting trail markers, but it also hides a lot of obstacles that could be problematic earlier in the season or in a low snow year.

If possible assign different colours of flagging tape to different meanings and/or different iterations of the trail. Suggested flagging types are given below:

• The trail - of course you want to flag the trail. It may be useful to have different colours for different iterations of the trail alignment.
• Stream / wet area - these may not be obvious in dry conditions so it may be a good idea to flag them while they are visible. The best time to find streams and wet areas is in the spring and early summer as the snow is melting.
• For ski trails, flag problem trees in the winter so they can be cut down at ground level in the summer.

Many colours of flagging are available, but some are better than others. Pink and Orange are highly visible in forest environments. Yellow, green and blue are more difficult to see. It's also a good idea to use a different colour than nearby forestry operations so the trail flags are not confused with clearcut falling boundary flags.

Trail Markers

For night travel, a retroreflective material such as 3M Diamond Grade Reflective Sheeting is ideal since they reflect light from a headlamp directly back at the trail user.

• Trail markers from the ski trail to Brew Lake were purchased from Astrographic Industries
• Trail markers for the Phelix Creek trail were purchased from Inprotect Systems

Guidelines for placing trail markers:

• Trail markers placed high, above the height of the maximum snowpack, will last much longer. This is especially true for right angle markers that stick out from the tree trunk. If trail markers are going to be placed below the height of maximum snowpack, smaller flush mounted marked should be used.
• For high markers above the height of maximum snowpack, place the trail markers in the spring when the snowpack is high to avoid having to climb trees.
• Trim branches on the tree that would obstruct the view of the marker. Consider that heavy snow can weigh down branches so that they point nearly straight down the tree. Also, snow can pile up on branches that are below a marker. A small bow saw is ideal for this task.
• Have someone sight the marker along the trail while it's being placed. As a bare minimum, the marker must be visible when standing at the previous marker. Ideally, from any point on the trail there should be two markers visible in either direction.
• Leave the nail head protruding about 1/4". This allows room for the tree to grow without enveloping the marker, and it also allows easier rework in case the marker needs to be reposisitioned.
• Holes drilled in the markers should be sized so the nail provides a snug fit to prevent the marker from spinning when placed as above. Alternately, use a hole larger than the nail, but near one corner of the marker. With this method, gravity will keep the marker from spinning.
• Use only aluminum nails to attach markers to trees, since these do not pose a safety hazard in sawmills should the tree ever be harvested in the future.
• Each trail marker team should have one bow saw and one claw hammer.

Signage

• Trail junctions should be signed with the destination of each trail branch, and preferably the distance as well.
• Inprotect Systems made the custom trailhead sign for the Phelix Creek Trail
• Carved and painted wooden signs are another option. The Roe Creek Ski Route has a wooden sign at the trailhead indicating the distance to the Brew Hut.

Tools

The Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC (FMCBC) has a cache of hand tools that member clubs can borrow for trail work. The tool cache is kept by Blair Mitten at his house in West Vancouver.

Tool selection will depend on what stage the trail is at. Clearing will require more saws and pruners. Tread construction will require more polaskis, pick axes and pry bars. Bridge building needs a chainsaw.

• Bow Saws: small low profile saws are best for removing tree branches. Medium size saws are better for cutting small trees, etc. Mainly, the blade needs to be sharp. New blades are inexpensive compared to the difficulty of using a dull saw. Any tree bigger than 6" is best left for a chainsaw.
• Garden pruners: Heavy duty anvil pruners with long arms are best.
• Chainsaw: Chainsaws are dangerous. Never use one alone - slways have a spotter. The spotter can help you carry the fuel and bar oil as well. Always use a full set safety equipment. Keep a felling wedge and an axe handy to free the saw if the bar gets stuck in a log.
• Peavy: This is a tool for rolling large diameter logs. It pairs up nicely with a chain saw.
• Polaski: for grubbing, cutting sidehill tread and digging drainage ditches.
• Pick Axe: for cutting sidehill and digging drainage ditches.
• Pry bar: for moving rocks.

Funding

MEC Grants have been used in the past to purchase trail markers. Also, the FMCBC can supply trail markers and lend tools.

External Links

• BC Government site for Recreation Trail Management
  • BC Forest Recreation manual Chapter 10 - Recreation Trail Management
  • Application form for permission to build a Recreation Trail
• IMBA trail building resources IMBA (Mountain Bike) methods are often overkill for hiking trails, but the same general principles apply