Smith Rock

Introduction

Smith Rock State Park is the premier rockclimbing destination in Central Oregon and is famous worldwide as an early birth place of bolted sport climbing in North America. Climbing is on two primary volcanic rock types. The welded tuff of the main formations provides knobby and pocketed face and irregular crack climbs at all angles and all difficulties. The basalt columns of the upper and lower gorges provide steep splitter cracks and delicate bolted face climbs.

Fall and Spring are prime seasons, winter can be cold and snowy but manageable, summer is formidably hot.

Top-ropeable climbs are limited in number as most formations are more than 1/2 rope length high. However there are numerous quality bolted and traditionally protected climbs at easy grades for the beginner lead climber.

Directions

Follow I5/405 south through seattle and take the secret exit north of Portland, following signs to HWY 26. Head southeast on HWY 26 through some small towns (Sandy, Brigthwood, Government Camp). Climb over the west flank of Mt. Hood into the central desert and the town of Madras. Take HWY 97 from Madras to the small town of Terrebonne.

Camping

Camp at Skull Hollow/The Grasslands for free. There are pit toilets but few other amenities. There are fire-pits for campfires. No picnic tables or seats, so bring your own lawnchairs etc. There is no water supply at the campground so bring your own jugs to fill from taps in town or at the climbing area. This camping area is about a 10 minute drive from the climbing area.

There is also a walk-in campground right in Smith Rock park (right next to the day-use parking). Although this costs a few bucks, you won't have to do a daily commute to the crags. After you factor in the day-use fee you would have to pay if you camped elsewhere, gas, and wear-and-tear on your car it's probably the cheaper alternative.

Climbing

The climbing area is almost entirely contained within Smith Rock State Park. There is a day-use parking fee at the park ($3US per car) which can only be paid by cash.

What to bring

Bring American money and a passport. You will get hosed on the exchange rate if you try and use a debit card. Bring your climbing gear, camping ear (reasonably warm), and a guide book (at least a photo copy). Should talk around to share tents and stoves.

Dates

Traditionally, there is a road trip to Smith Rock on the Rememberance Day long weekend in early November. See the trip agenda for more details.

Smith Rock Trip 2006

Nov. 10-13, 2006 (Remembrance Day Weekend)

Sign Up

1. Kaja
2. Duncan
3. Champagne
4. Fuller

Cars

If you have space in your car, please post the spots. Passengers pay for gas. If you have a rope and/or rack, please indicate so that we can try and even out people with gear into cars with less gear.

• Kaja's car (4 spaces):
  

1. Kaja (2 ropes, draws & trad rack)
   
2. Duncan
   
3. Champagne (Oh yes, Duncan!)
   

Links

http://www.smithrock.com/