Archive:Denali 2011

Team Details

Team VOC Hot Faff

• Geoffrey Martin
• Michael Duncan
• Christian Champagne
• Laura Morrison

Emergency Contact Info

Michael Duncan

Sylvia Duncan

Relationship: mother

Phone: (w) 604-530-1311 (h) 604-533-5060 (c) 604-341-5862

Address: 3926 196th St, Langley, B.C. V3A 6G1

To Do List

Mt Denali National Park Registration - Dec.

• Due minimum of 60 days before the climb (April 9^th, 2011)
• Mountaineering Fee: $200/person
• Park Fee: $10
• Deposit Upon Registration: $25
• Online and hard copy forms available, must be completed together.

Info here

Flights - Dec.

• K2 Aviation by January 31^st, 2011 - $460/person ($560 otherwise)
  • $100 group deposit upon reservation.

Vehicle - Dec

• Geoff should be able to borrow his family's Ford Windstar minivan. We can expect it to use about $800 worth of fuel on the trip. Lots of room, ski rack, well maintained, and safe and easy to drive.
• Duncan will meeting the rest of the team in Anchorage, AK after flying in from Quebec City, QC on June 8^th, 2011

Medical Needs - New Year

• Everyone should have a physical done
• Need up to date tetanus shot
• Can be referred to the Vancouver High Altitude Medicine Clinic if it's helpful

This consultation is not covered by the BC medical service plan (MSP) unless your physician faxes a referral letter to f-604.822.9058.

• Need certain prescription drugs
  • Champagne - will email Kristen for her remaining drugs from her 2010 Mt Logan attempt.

Food Planning - New Year

• Figure out each persons daily needs
• Design menus
• Menu needs food for easy days, hard days, quick days, and slow days
• Menu should have variety and include meals satisfying different needs based on the kind of day
• Divide dinner menus amongst ourselves giving each person responsibility over several meals for everyone
• Food should be made from scratch and dried for maximum deliciousness
• Food Allergies?
  • Laura: none
  • Champagne: none
  • Duncan: none
  • Jeff: milk products (especially cheese)

Insurances Coverage - New Year

• Basic Emergency & Medical Insurance through The Cooperators as MEC members
  • Cost: $53.01/individual for 1 month ($1.75 x 30 days)
  • Optional plans (trip interruption, Cancellation, Accidental Death & Dismemberment) available.

• GEO Search and Rescue (SAR) Benefit
  • Cost: US$13.95/SPOT (annual)
  • Terms & Conditions

• GEOS MEDIVAC+
  • Cost: US$67.50/individual for 1 month (US$2.25 x 30 days)
  • Terms & Conditions

Gear

Personal

Skis

• 1 pair of Touring Skis
• 1 pair of Ski Boots
• 1 pair of Ski crampons
• 1 pair of Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
• 1 pair of Climbing Skins
• 1 Avalanche Transceiver
• 1 Shovel
• 1 Avalanche Probe
• 1 skiing sled – may come free with glacier flight
  • Champagne + Laura: talked to Pete Hudson and has two spare sleds we can use.
• 1 Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled

Mountaineering

• 1 Expedition Backpack (+80L)
• Compression Stuff Sacks - For clothes, gear & caches.
• 2 Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – just in case…
• Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses
• 1 lightweight ice axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.
• 1 pair of crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
• 1 climbing helmet
• Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
• 1 alpine Climbing Harness
• 2 prussiks
• 2 small locking biners
• 1 large locking biner
• 1 double length sling
• 2 non-lockers biners
• Pulley – for crevasse rescue and rigging (little, light, cheap)
• Picket(s)
• Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
• Webbing
• 1 Ascender – One right or left-handed. May be optional, there is a section of fixed ropes we could use at the headwall.
• 1 Camera gear – light and simple, we probably don’t all need it
• American money - Lots of good gear deals to be found on Denali

Footwear

• 1 pair of fully insulated overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots (40Below)
• 1 pair of gaiters – for lower on the mountain
• 2 pairs of Heavyweight Socks
• 2 pairs of liner Socks
• 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Socks
• 1 pair of Camp Booties

Technical Clothing

• 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Top
• 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Bottom
  • synthetic or wool. Good for hot days lower on the glacier, or for layering with the heavyweight on the upper mountain
• 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Top – synthetic or wool
• 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Bottom – synthetic or wool
• 2 (or more) pairs of underwear - boxers or briefs.
• 1 Soft Shell Jacket w/ hood – midweight or heavyweight
• 1 Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight
• 1 Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
• 1 Hard Shell Pants – waterproof, breathable or not
• 1 Down Jacket or Parka – fit over insulation layers
• 1 Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers

Headwear

• 1 Toque – should cover ears
• 2 Balaclavas
  • 1 lightweight
  • 1 heavyweight to layer
• 1 Sunhat/sunshield
• 1 Nose Guard
• 1 Bandana
• 1 Glacier Glasses – 100% UVA and UVB, w/ side covers
• 1 Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB

Handwear

• 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
• 1 pair of Expedition Weight Gloves – with medium or heavy weight soft shell liner
• 1 pair of Expedition Weight Mitts – for when gloves aren’t good enough
• 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring and sun protection
• 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Gloves - It's freakin' cold.

Sleeping

• 1 Expedition Sleeping Bag – -30*C rating or better
• 1 Compression Sack - For Sleeping Bag
• 1 Vapour Barrier Liner - prevents condensation in sleeping bag
• 1 or 2 Sleeping Pad(s) – Closed cell foam or inflatable (or both)
• 1 Eyemask - It's bright 24/7 up there.
• 1 Pillow stuff sack (optional)

Toiletry

• 1 Toothbrush
• 1 tube of toothpaste (for 30 days)
• Dental floss
• TP (for 30 days)
• 1 lighter
• 1 Hand Sanitizer
• Sunscreen +30 SPF (for 30 days)
• 1 Lip balm w/ +30 SPF
• 1 Hand moisturizer w/ Aloe
• Baby wipes
• 1 Deodorant (optional)
• 1 Pee Funnel – if you’re a girl (ie: Freshette)
• 1 Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it

Cooking

• 1 Bowl/measuring cup (i.e. GSI Fair Share Mug)
• 1 insulated EVA closed foam for bowl/measuring cup
• 1 spoon (or spork)
• 1 small knife (or multitool)
• 2 Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
• 2 Water Bottle Parkas – insulated to prevent freezing

Travelling (Road Trip)

• Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
• Backpack or small duffel – for travelling or to store personal stuff in Talkeetna while climbing
• 1 Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic
• Passport - We're crossing the border

First Aid

• TBD

Group

Mountaineering

• Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
• Ropes – probably 1 half, maybe 2
  • Champagne: 30m Beal Rando 8mm twin rope (Dry treated)
  • Jeff: 60m 8mm rope
• Wands

Sleeping

• 2 4-Season Expedition Tents
  • Champagne - MWH Trango 2
• 2 flood tent EVA closed cell foam pad (3 mm (1/8') thickness)
  • Intuition or 40Below

Navigation

• 1 GPS
• 1 SPOT Satellite Messenger (Champagne)
  • Need to look into getting GEOS coverage.
• 4 Radios – each person should have one
• Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
• 1 Solar charger (Champagne)
• 1 compass w/ inclinometer
• 1 altimeter
• 4 whistles - one each
• Maps
  • USGS Mount McKinley A-3
  • NatGeo Mt Denali Recreational Map
• Guidebook(s)
  • Denali's West Buttress - A Climber's Guide to Mount McKinley's Classic Route by Colby Coombs.
  • A Punters Guide to Succeeding (or not) on Denali’s West Buttress

Cooking

• 1 Cooking tent (Champagne ?)
• 3 High-Altitude Stoves
  • Champagne: 1 MSR XGK EX stove
  • Jeff: 1 MSR WhisperLite stove
  • Duncan: 1 MSR WhisperLite Stove
• Lighters
  • Champagne: 1 Primus Ignition Steel Fire Starter
• 3 MSR Heat Exchangers (Champagne)
• 3 MSR Windscreens
  • Champagne: 1
• Pots
  • Champagne: MSR Exo 2 Pot
• 2 MEC Hot Pot Cookwear insulator (Champagne)
• 3 stove snow platforms
  • Champagne: 1 Wilderness Concepts MSR WhisperLite snow platform
• White Gas - Quantity TBD
• 1 GSI Compact Scraper (Champagne)
• 1 Large capacity (10L) water bladder
• 1 Black plastic bag for snow melting
• 1 Pristine ClO2 60ml Water Treatment

First Aid

Drugs

Analgesics

• Ibuprofen (Motrin, 400mg) - For muscle aches, inflammations and fever - cause water retention, which may aggravate AMS & HAPE
• Aspirin (650mg) - For fever or headaches

Antimicrobial Preparations

• Cephalexin (Keflex, 500mg) - Antibiotic used to treat staphylococcal and streptococcal skin and soft-tissue inflections and urinary tract infections.

Gastroinstestinal Medications

• Loperamide (Imodium, 2mg) - Helps control diarrhea.

Cardiac and Respiratory Agents

• Acetazolamide (Diamox, 125 mg) - Reduces severity of AMS symptoms & provides sleep relief.
• Dexamethasone (Decadron, 4 mg) - For treatment of severe AMS and HACE, but doesn't promote acclimatization as Acetazolmanide.
• Nifedipine (Procardia & Adalat, 30mg) - Reduces the incidence of HAPE.

Others

• Cyclizine (Marezine, 50 mg) - Antihistamine drug to treat allergic reactions and motion sickness
• Personal Medication

Bandages Material

• 4 Non-adherent Sterile gauze pads, 3" x 4"
• 8 Sterile gauze pads, 4" squares, Pkg./2
• 8 Sterile gauze pads, 2" squares, Pkg./2
• 2 Sterile Eye Pads
• 2 Sterile Conforming Gauze, 3"
• 20 Adhesive Bandage, 1" x 3"
• 10 Adhesive Bandage, Knuckle

Bleeding

• 3 Pairs of Nitrile Gloves
• 3 Hand Wipes
• 1 Trauma Pad, 8" x 10"
• 1 Trauma Pad, 5" x 9"

Blister/Burn

• 2 Spenco Second Skin (Large Oval)
• 6 Moleskin, 4" squares
• 1 Molefoam, 5" x 6"
• 1 Aloe Vera Gel w/ Lidocaine, 1 oz
• 1 roll of Athletic tape

CPR

• 1 CPR Face Shield, Laerdal

Dental

• 1 Temporary Cavity Filling Mixture

Fracture/Sprain

• 1 Elastic Tensor Band w/ Velcro, 3"
• 1 Elastic Tensor Band w/ Velcro, 2"
• 1 SAM Split, 4" x 36"
• 2 Triangular Bandages

Instruments

• 1 Surgical forceps & tweezers
• 1 Oral Thermometer
• 1 EMT Shears, 4"
• 3 Safety pins
• 1 Pencil
• 1 Magnifying glass
• 1 Penlight
• 1 Sterile Disposable Scalpel w/ #11 blade
• 1 Sterile 20cc Syringe w/ 18 Gauge tip
• Plastic Oropharyngeal airway(s)
• Tongue blades
• Zip-Lock bags

Medical Information

• 1 Patient Assessment Form
• 1 Instruction list for all drugs
• 1 Instruction list for more complicated bandaging supplies
• Books(?)
  • Photocopied pages from Medicine for Mountaineering & Other Wilderness Activities (6th Ed.)
  • NOLS - Wilderness Medicine
  • Backcountry First Aid & Extended Care (5th Ed.)
• 1 Accident Flowchart

Wound Care

• 10 Antiseptic wipes
• 3 Tincture of Benzoin Topical Adhesive
• 3 Povidone Iodine, 0.75 oz
• 2 Butterfly (Steri-) strips, 1/4" x 4", Pkg./10
• 4 Sterile Cotton Tip Applicators
• 1 roll of Porous Adhesive tape, 2" width
• Wound Antiseptic (Betadine) - 2 to 4 ounces

Entertainment

• 1 deck of cards (micro or Freedom of the hills (Champagne) ?)
• 1 micro Chess board
• 1 micro checkers board
• 1 iPod w/ speakers
• Books (War and Peace-style)
• 1 Duncan

Repair Kits

• Voiles straps - Length & Quantity TBD
• Duct tape - Length TBD
• 1 large multitool
• 1 small file
• Steel wire - Quantity TBD

Ski repairs

• G3 TARGA/TARGA Ascent backcountry kit
  • TBD
• Dynafit parts
  • TBD
• 1 spare ski pole
• 1 spare ski basket
• Black Diamond Skin Globstopper (Champagne)
• G3/BD Skin repair kit
  • Tails
  • Loops

Mountaineering repairs

• Cords - Length, type and quantity TBD

Clothing repairs

• Gore-Tex patches (Champagne)
• 1 pair of Sunglasses
• 1 sewing kit - TBD

Tent repairs

• 2 spare tent pole segment (1 for each tent)
• 1 tube (60 ml) of Seam Grip Seam Sure Seam Sealer
• 2 tent pole sleeves

Sleeping repairs

• Therm-A-Rest Patch kit - For Prolites
• 1 spare Therm-A-Rest Valve.

Cooking repairs

• 1 MSR WhisperLite Expedition Service kit
• 1 MSR XGK EX Expedition Service kit
• 1 MSR Stove Annual Maintenance kit

Food

Requirements

Road Trip (Vancouver -> Denali)

• X Breakfasts
• X Lunches
• X Dinners

Alpine (Denali)

• X Breakfasts
• X Lunches
• X Dinners

Road Trip (Denali -> Vancouver)

• X Breakfasts
• X Lunches
• X Dinners

Geoff

Average daily consumption

• XXXg Breakfast
• XXXg Lunch
• XXXg Dinner
• XXg Chocolate
• XXg Protein Goo

Alpine Breakfasts'

• TBD

Alpine Lunches

• TBD

Alpine Dinners

• TBD

Duncan

Average daily consumption

• XXXg Breakfast
• XXXg Lunch
• XXXg Dinner
• XXg Chocolate
• XXg Protein Goo

Alpine Breakfasts'

• TBD

Alpine Lunches

• TBD

Alpine Dinners

• TBD

Laura

Average daily consumption

• XXXg Breakfast
• XXXg Lunch
• XXXg Dinner
• XXg Chocolate
• XXg Protein Goo

Alpine Breakfasts'

• TBD

Alpine Lunches

• TBD

Alpine Dinners

• TBD

Champagne

Average daily consumption

• XXXg Breakfast
• XXXg Lunch
• XXXg Dinner
• XXg Chocolate
• XXg Protein Goo

Alpine Breakfasts'

• TBD

Alpine Lunches

• TBD

Alpine Dinners

• TBD

UBC Human Kinetics Research

High Altitude Acute Mountain Sickness Genetic Susceptibility

• Duncan, Jeff and Champagne have participated in an ongoing AMS susceptibility study at UBC.
• The researchers are interested in assisting the team with medical backup in return to doing some medical during the trip.
• Extremely useful for grant applications.
  • Meeting will be either the 6^th, 13^th or 20^th of January 2011 at 10am in the Wesbrook building

Grants/fund raisers

MEC - Expedition Support

• Deadlines:
  • February 1^st
  • May 1^st
• Champagne will look into it.

ACC - Jen Higgins Memorial Fund

• Laura will look into it.

Fund raisers

• Jeff & Duncan will look into it.