Archive:Garibaldi Again

Garibaldi brewing up some clouds.

Synopsis

If you've ever been to Squamish, you've probably seen the massive pyramid shaped mountain in the background as you arrive in town. That mountain is Garibaldi and basically any sort of mountaineer in BC has or wants to climb it (it's just too awesome not to climb it). I've tried to climb it four times now, all of which resulted in failure. I've heard many VOCers expressing keen interest to give it a shot this year, along with ridiculous statements that we'll fix ropes all the way from the parking lot to the summit and we'll setting up a permanent camp on the glacier until good weather arrives. Since I've got so much experience at failing to climb this mountain, I've decided that it's my duty to lead as many attempts as it takes to climb it. I now know the bumps along Brohm ridge far too well and can navigate them in complete white-out conditions (far enough to get us to a suitable camping area), but the rest of the mountain will require good weather (something Garibaldi is not known for). The route is glaciated, avalanche prone, requires navigation of a bergshrund, has a steep 45 degree headwall, is prone to creating its own white-out conditions even during good weather, and will be cold, so this will be intermediate friendly. For those of you who are keen, please join me in this years newest attempts.

Skills Required

Someone who'd like to join this trip should have the following skills:

• Avalanche training
• Glacier travel training
• Winter camping experience
• General fitness

Route

• NE face of Garibaldi with an approach from Brohm Ridge (or depending on interest, we can do a neve crossing along the way).

Getting to the top is of course never a guarantee, but we will have a whole bunch of fun and learn a lot.

Gear Required

Check out the gear lists on the wiki for a mountaineering trip here: Gear lists

Remember, the VOC has lots of gear for rent in the clubroom. There are lots of crampons, ice axes, packs, harnesses, helmets, etc... available in the clubroom.

Clothes

• 1 set of non-cotton clothes (just the one set)
• 1 additional fleece
• 1 additional very warm thing (down jacket)
• 1 extra pair of warm socks
• water proof pants and jacket (even if the weather is suppose to be good)
• long underwear
• toque (very important!!!)
• 2 pairs (for when the first pair gets wet) of gloves (must be very warm)
• ski boots

Shelter

• Tent (share with someone)
• sleeping bag (of appropriate warm to you, it will proabably be about -15C at night)
• sleeping pad

Miscellaneous

• Sunscreen
• Headlamp (very important!!!)
• lip balm
• sunglasses (very important!!!!)
• camera
• Toilet Paper
• Toothbrush
• Lighter

Gear

• ice axe (can borrow from club)
• crampons (we can discuss whether to bring these at the pre-trip meeting)
• climbing harness (can borrow from club)
• helmet (can borrow from club)
• prussiks
• 2 non-locking and 2 locking carabiners (Ask to borrow from someone, ie: Geoff, or buy at MEC)
• Snow pickets (if you have some)
• Skis, boots, poles and skins

Food

• stove + pot + fuel + lighter (or share with someone)
• Thing to eat out of
• spoon
• Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast, Lunch (or join a food group)
• Water

Pack

And a pack to put it all in.

Pre-Trip Meeting

The Pre-Trip Meeting will be at 6:00pm on a Wednesday in the clubroom.

• It is very important that you attend the pre-trip meeting as we'll be deciding on rides, accommodations (tent groups or hut), food groups, etc. We'll also decide the final number for this trip and we'll go over important details and skills.
• If you're on the waitlist and attend the Pre-Trip meeting you'll probably get a spot (assuming the list doesn't get too much longer).
• If you can't attend the Pre-Trip meeting but still want to go contact *todd at phas dot ubc dot ca* and one of the drivers to make sure you have a ride.

Sign-up (with experience)

1. Todd Mackenzie (AST1, glacier school and experience, winter camping experience)

Vehicle List

Sign up here if you have a vehicle. This pretty much guarantees you a spot on the trip.

Accommodations

We'll be sleeping on the glacier below the NE face.