Smith Rock

Smith Rock

Introduction

Smith Rock State Park is the premier rockclimbing destination in Central Oregon and is famous worldwide as an early birth place of bolted sport climbing in North America. Climbing is on two primary volcanic rock types. The welded tuff of the main formations provides knobby and pocketed face and irregular crack climbs at all angles and all difficulties. The basalt columns of the upper and lower gorges provide steep splitter cracks and delicate bolted face climbs.

Fall and Spring are prime seasons, winter can be cold and snowy but manageable, summer is formidably hot.

Top-ropeable climbs are limited in number as most formations are more than 1/2 rope length high. However there are numerous quality bolted and traditionally protected climbs at easy grades for the beginner lead climber.

Directions

Directions from Vancouver to Smith Rock

Follow I5/405 south through seattle and take the secret exit north of Portland, following signs to HWY 26. Head southeast on HWY 26 through some small towns (Sandy, Brigthwood, Government Camp). Climb over the west flank of Mt. Hood into the central desert and the town of Madras. Take HWY 97 from Madras to the small town of Terrebonne. Turn East off HWY 97 at NE Smith Rock Way, then head to one of the campgrounds. The entire drive from Vancouver takes about 10 hours.

Local map of Redmond & Smith Rock

Camping

Camp at Skull Hollow/The Grasslands for free. There are pit toilets but few other amenities. There are fire-pits for campfires. No picnic tables or seats, so bring your own lawnchairs etc. There is no water supply at the campground so bring your own jugs to fill from taps in town or at the climbing area. This camping area is about a 10 minute drive from the climbing area.

There is also a walk-in campground right in Smith Rock park (right next to the day-use parking). Although this costs a few bucks, you won't have to do a daily commute to the crags. After you factor in the day-use fee you would have to pay if you camped elsewhere, gas, and wear-and-tear on your car it's probably the cheaper alternative.

Climbing

The climbing area is almost entirely contained within Smith Rock State Park. There is a day-use parking fee at the park ($3US per car) which can only be paid by cash.

What to bring

Bring American money and a passport. You will get hosed on the exchange rate if you try and use a debit card. Bring your climbing gear, camping gear (reasonably warm), and a guide book (at least a photo copy). Should talk around to share tents and stoves.

Dates

Traditionally, there is a road trip to Smith Rock on the Rememberance Day long weekend in early November. See the trip agenda for more details.

Smith Rock Trip 2006

Nov. 10-13, 2006 (Remembrance Day Weekend)

Pre-Trip Meeting

VOC Clubroom on Tuesday, November 7th, 2006 @ 7pm

Come if: you are carless, you are a driver with space in your car, you need directions on how to get there or you have questions/need to find a partner.

Sign Up

Note: For those who are going biking only, please add (B) beside your name.

Kaja Duncan Champagne Fuller Pete Hudson Jowen Yeo Charlotte Caunt Natalie Stafl Micheal Blicker Laura Catton Bob Lai Fiona Campbell Christian Sampaleanu Alice Leppitt Mike Young Evan Morris Greta Raymant Matthew Breakey AJ Allan Sophie Silver

Nick Chng Melissa Hollis Charissa Pinnell Seth Adams Lara Thompson Elizabeth Young Eric von Lieres Katharina Laeufer Greg Dennis Irena Kuca Stephen Lerch Meghan Trepanier Ignacio Rozada Michael Hägler ysaline rochat Aurore Ponvienne Laure Chastel Andrew Silversides Stephanie Schmitt Holger Fese

Matt Frey Ian Garber Rebecca Kostamo Andrew McGechaen Joost Lucker Scott Webster Jeff Mottershead Iva Cheung Kristin Warkentin Victor Jitlin Julie Patrick Libby Sherwood arlin

Cars

If you have space in your car, please post the spots. Passengers pay for gas. If you have a rope and/or rack, please indicate so that we can try and even out people with gear into cars with less gear (see below).

Note: Since it seems that we're going to have a cycling contingency, those who have a bike rack (or willing to lend one) please say so beside your car.

• Seth Adams (4-5 spots) [rope,rack,tent,stove]{Friday afternoon - Tuesday night} (can take up to 2 bikes on roof) very willing to be a passenger, but my car is available if needed. Perhaps those willing to blow off Tuesday should ride with me.

1. Seth
2. Jowen (2 person tent, draws, rope)
3. Julie Patrick
4. Aurore Ponvienne (tent)
5. Laure Chastel

• Kaja's car (4 spaces) [2 ropes, draws & full trad rack] {friday afternoon-monday night}:
  

1. Kaja
2. Duncan
3. Champagne (Oh yes, Duncan!)
4. Fuller (rope, quickdraws)

• Pete's Sweet Jacked up Truck aka SJUT (5 spaces) {Leaving Friday afternoon, back the following thursday but can drop people off at the train station in Portland for the AmTrack back to Vancouver on Tuesday night... The Greyhound bus runs from Portland to Vancouver BC leaving portland at 5pm and arriving in Vancouver at 2am . It costs 45USD}:
  

1. Pete (2 ropes, full trad rack)
   
2. Andrew McGechaen
3. Tom Furst
4. 
   
5. 
   

• Bob Lai (6 spots){Friday afternoon - Tues)

1. Bob
2. Laura
3. Evan (rope, draws, tent, stove)
4. Greta
5. Holger Feser
6. Ysaline Rochat

• Fiona Campbell (Thursday afternoon - Monday evening)

1. Fiona (Rope, draws, 1/2 Trad Rack)
2. Mike Young (Rope, draws, 1/2 Trad Rack, Guide book, Chain Saw)
3. Charissa Pinnell (Rope)

• Lara Thompson (3 spots, not much room for gear!)[rope,small rack,tent,camp stove](Friday afternoon - Monday evening)

1. Alice Leppitt
2. Sophie Silver
3. Melissa Hollis

• Matthew Breakey (4 spots) [rope,rack]{Friday afternoon - Monday}

1. Paweł Mirski (rope, biners, sling, chalk:P, le biciclet?)
2. Greg Dennis(2 person tent, stove, Brand New Draws!)
3. Eric von Lieres (rope, quickdraws)
4. 
   

• Alex Khramov (4 spots){Friday 3:30 UBC - Mon night)

1. Alex
2. Christian Sampaleanu
3. Liz Young
4. Victor Jitlin

• Stephen Lerch (3 spots, 1 rope, sport gear and one canopy [canopy is full of sleepers]) I can carry extra gear for people so call me.

1. Me
2. Meghan Trepanier
3. 
   

• James Painter (tentatively if he can find someone over 25 to drive / supervise)

1. James
2. Katharina Laeufer
3. Ignacio Rozada (over 25/with driver's license)
4. Rebecca Kostamo
5. Michael Hägler

• Matt Frey (leaving on Friday at around 4pm, back some time on Monday, MY LAST SPOT IS UP FOR GRABS...email or call me if interested)

1. Matt Frey
2. Mike Blicker
3. Ian Garber
4. Libby Sherwood

• Scott's Car (Fri aft - Mon night)

1. Scott Webster
2. Jeff Mottershead
3. Iva Cheung
4. 
   

• Kristin's car (Fri. aft-Mon night)

1. Joost Lucker (rope,2 harnesses,sport gear,rope gun, 2 p. tent)
2. Ben Singleton-Polster (lead rope, top rope, sport climbing gear and nuts, 3 person tent, i would most prefer to leave sometime after 3 but can leave after 12 on fri, direction sheet that was handed out at the meeting)
3. Irena Kuca
4. Andrew Silversides

Carless People

• People in need of a ride.

1. Rebecca Kostamo (Friday-Monday)
2. Paige Morrow (have tent & all camping gear) -- hiking

1. Victor Jitlin - (Friday LATE aft-Monday) have rope, quick-draws, camping stuff

External Links

• www.smithrock.com
• Mike Young's Topo
• Dr. Topo Topo
• Kaja's Directions to Smith