Archive:Denali 2011

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Revision as of 21:41, 4 January 2011 by imported>Champagne (Update 10 - Group First Aid)
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Team Details

Team VOC Hot Faff

  • Geoffrey Martin
  • Michael Duncan
  • Christian Champagne
  • Laura Morrison

Emergency Contact Info

Geoffrey Martin

Michael Duncan

Sylvia Duncan

Relationship: mother

Phone: (w) 604-530-1311 (h) 604-533-5060 (c) 604-341-5862

Address: 3926 196th St, Langley, B.C. V3A 6G1

Christian Champagne

Laura Morrison

To Do List

Mt Denali National Park Registration - Dec.

  • Due minimum of 60 days before the climb (April 9th, 2011)
  • Mountaineering Fee: $200/person
  • Park Fee: $10
  • Deposit Upon Registration: $25
  • Online and hard copy forms available, must be completed together.

Info here

Flights - Dec.

  • K2 Aviation by January 31st, 2011 - $460/person ($560 otherwise)
    • $100 group deposit upon reservation.

Vehicle - Dec

  • Geoff should be able to borrow his family's Ford Windstar minivan. We can expect it to use about $800 worth of fuel on the trip. Lots of room, ski rack, well maintained, and safe and easy to drive.
  • Duncan will meeting the rest of the team in Anchorage, AK after flying in from Quebec City, QC on June 8th, 2011

Medical Needs - New Year

This consultation is not covered by the BC medical service plan (MSP) unless your physician faxes a referral letter to f-604.822.9058.

  • Need certain prescription drugs
    • Champagne - will email Kristen for her remaining drugs from her 2010 Mt Logan attempt.

Food Planning - New Year

  • Figure out each persons daily needs
  • Design menus
  • Menu needs food for easy days, hard days, quick days, and slow days
  • Menu should have variety and include meals satisfying different needs based on the kind of day
  • Divide dinner menus amongst ourselves giving each person responsibility over several meals for everyone
  • Food should be made from scratch and dried for maximum deliciousness
  • Food Allergies?
    • Laura: none
    • Champagne: none
    • Duncan: none
    • Jeff: milk products (especially cheese)

Insurances Coverage - New Year

Gear

Personal

Skis

  • 1 pair of Touring Skis
  • 1 pair of Ski Boots
  • 1 pair of Ski crampons
  • 1 pair of Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
  • 1 pair of Climbing Skins
  • 1 Avalanche Transceiver
  • 1 Shovel
  • 1 Avalanche Probe
  • 1 skiing sled – may come free with glacier flight
    • Champagne + Laura: talked to Pete Hudson and has two spare sleds we can use.
  • 1 Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled

Mountaineering

  • 1 Expedition Backpack (+80L)
  • Compression Stuff Sacks - For clothes, gear & caches.
  • 2 Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – just in case…
  • Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses
  • 1 lightweight ice axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.
  • 1 pair of crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
  • 1 climbing helmet
  • Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
  • 1 alpine Climbing Harness
  • 2 prussiks
  • 2 small locking biners
  • 1 large locking biner
  • 1 double length sling
  • 2 non-lockers biners
  • Pulley – for crevasse rescue and rigging (little, light, cheap)
  • Picket(s)
  • Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
  • Webbing
  • 1 Ascender – One right or left-handed. May be optional, there is a section of fixed ropes we could use at the headwall.
  • 1 Camera gear – light and simple, we probably don’t all need it
  • American money - Lots of good gear deals to be found on Denali

Footwear

  • 1 pair of fully insulated overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots (40Below)
  • 1 pair of gaiters – for lower on the mountain
  • 2 pairs of Heavyweight Socks
  • 2 pairs of liner Socks
  • 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Socks
  • 1 pair of Camp Booties

Technical Clothing

  • 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Top
  • 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Bottom
    • synthetic or wool. Good for hot days lower on the glacier, or for layering with the heavyweight on the upper mountain
  • 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Top – synthetic or wool
  • 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Bottom – synthetic or wool
  • 2 (or more) pairs of underwear - boxers or briefs.
  • 1 Soft Shell Jacket w/ hood – midweight or heavyweight
  • 1 Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight
  • 1 Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
  • 1 Hard Shell Pants – waterproof, breathable or not
  • 1 Down Jacket or Parka – fit over insulation layers
  • 1 Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers

Headwear

  • 1 Toque – should cover ears
  • 2 Balaclavas
    • 1 lightweight
    • 1 heavyweight to layer
  • 1 Sunhat/sunshield
  • 1 Nose Guard
  • 1 Bandana
  • 1 Glacier Glasses – 100% UVA and UVB, w/ side covers
  • 1 Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB

Handwear

  • 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
  • 1 pair of Expedition Weight Gloves – with medium or heavy weight soft shell liner
  • 1 pair of Expedition Weight Mitts – for when gloves aren’t good enough
  • 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring and sun protection
  • 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Gloves - It's freakin' cold.

Sleeping

  • 1 Expedition Sleeping Bag – -30*C rating or better
  • 1 Compression Sack - For Sleeping Bag
  • 1 Vapour Barrier Liner - prevents condensation in sleeping bag
  • 1 or 2 Sleeping Pad(s) – Closed cell foam or inflatable (or both)
  • 1 Eyemask - It's bright 24/7 up there.
  • 1 Pillow stuff sack (optional)

Toiletry

  • 1 Toothbrush
  • 1 tube of toothpaste (for 30 days)
  • Dental floss
  • TP (for 30 days)
  • 1 lighter
  • 1 Hand Sanitizer
  • Sunscreen +30 SPF (for 30 days)
  • 1 Lip balm w/ +30 SPF
  • 1 Hand moisturizer w/ Aloe
  • Baby wipes
  • 1 Deodorant (optional)
  • 1 Pee Funnel – if you’re a girl (ie: Freshette)
  • 1 Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it

Cooking

  • 1 Bowl/measuring cup (i.e. GSI Fair Share Mug)
  • 1 insulated EVA closed foam for bowl/measuring cup
  • 1 spoon (or spork)
  • 1 small knife (or multitool)
  • 2 Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
  • 2 Water Bottle Parkas – insulated to prevent freezing

Travelling (Road Trip)

  • Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
  • Backpack or small duffel – for travelling or to store personal stuff in Talkeetna while climbing
  • 1 Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic
  • Passport - We're crossing the border

First Aid

  • TBD

Group

Mountaineering

  • Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
  • Ropes – probably 1 half, maybe 2
    • Champagne: 30m Beal Rando 8mm twin rope (Dry treated)
    • Jeff: 60m 8mm rope
  • Wands

Sleeping

  • 2 4-Season Expedition Tents
    • Champagne - MWH Trango 2
  • 2 flood tent EVA closed cell foam pad (3 mm (1/8') thickness)
    • Intuition or 40Below
  • 1 GPS
  • 1 SPOT Satellite Messenger (Champagne)
    • Need to look into getting GEOS coverage.
  • 4 Radios – each person should have one
  • Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
  • 1 Solar charger (Champagne)
  • 1 compass w/ inclinometer
  • 1 altimeter
  • 4 whistles - one each
  • Maps
    • USGS Mount McKinley A-3
    • NatGeo Mt Denali Recreational Map
  • Guidebook(s)

Cooking

  • 1 Cooking tent (Champagne ?)
  • 3 High-Altitude Stoves
    • Champagne: 1 MSR XGK EX stove
    • Jeff: 1 MSR WhisperLite stove
    • Duncan: 1 MSR WhisperLite Stove
  • Lighters
    • Champagne: 1 Primus Ignition Steel Fire Starter
  • 3 MSR Heat Exchangers (Champagne)
  • 3 MSR Windscreens
    • Champagne: 1
  • Pots
    • Champagne: MSR Exo 2 Pot
  • 2 MEC Hot Pot Cookwear insulator (Champagne)
  • 3 stove snow platforms
    • Champagne: 1 Wilderness Concepts MSR WhisperLite snow platform
  • White Gas - Quantity TBD
  • 1 GSI Compact Scraper (Champagne)
  • 1 Large capacity (10L) water bladder
  • 1 Black plastic bag for snow melting
  • 1 Pristine ClO2 60ml Water Treatment

First Aid

Drugs

Analgesics
  • Ibuprofen (Motrin, 400mg) - For muscle aches, inflammations and fever - cause water retention, which may aggravate AMS & HAPE
  • Aspirin (650mg) - For fever or headaches
Antimicrobial Preparations
  • Cephalexin (Keflex, 500mg) - Antibiotic used to treat staphylococcal and streptococcal skin and soft-tissue inflections and urinary tract infections.
Gastroinstestinal Medications
  • Loperamide (Imodium, 2mg) - Helps control diarrhea.
Cardiac and Respiratory Agents
  • Acetazolamide (Diamox, 125 mg) - Reduces severity of AMS symptoms & provides sleep relief.
  • Dexamethasone (Decadron, 4 mg) - For treatment of severe AMS and HACE, but doesn't promote acclimatization as Acetazolmanide.
  • Nifedipine (Procardia & Adalat, 30mg) - Reduces the incidence of HAPE.
Others
  • Cyclizine (Marezine, 50 mg) - Antihistamine drug to treat allergic reactions and motion sickness
  • Personal Medication

Bandages & dressings

  • Nonadherent gauze pads
  • Spenco Second Skin
  • Butterfly (Steri-) strips
  • Sterile Absorbent cotton
  • Cotton Swabs (Q-Tips)
  • Eye Pads
  • Adhesive pads (Band-Aids), large - 10 or more
  • Sterile gauze pads, 4" squares - 6 or more
  • Porous Adhesive tape, 2" width - 1 roll
  • Moleskin, 4" squares - 4 to 6
  • Elastic bandage, 3" width - 1 or 2
  • Triangular bandage - 2 or 3
  • Wound Antiseptic (Betadine) - 2 to 4 ounces

Equipment

  • Surgical forceps & tweezers
  • Magnifying glass
  • Penlight
  • Scissors
  • Scalpel w/ blades
  • Syringes & needles
  • Oral Thermometer
  • Plastic Oropharyngeal airway(s)
  • Tongue blades
  • Sterile Nitrile gloves
  • SAM Splint
  • Zip-Lock bags
  • Safety pins
  • Tensor Bandage
  • Athletic Tape
  • Tourniquet
  • Incident Report Form
  • Pencil
  • Instruction list for all drugs
  • Instruction for more complicated bandaging supplies
  • Books(?)
    • Photocopied pages from Medicine for Mountaineering & Other Wilderness Activities (6th Ed.)
    • NOLS - Wilderness Medicine
    • Backcountry First Aid & Extended Care (5th Ed.)
  • Accident Flowchart

Entertainment

  • 1 deck of cards (micro or Freedom of the hills (Champagne) ?)
  • 1 micro Chess board
  • 1 micro checkers board
  • 1 iPod w/ speakers
  • Books (War and Peace-style)
  • 1 Duncan

Repair Kits

  • Voiles straps - Length & Quantity TBD
  • Duct tape - Length TBD
  • 1 large multitool
  • 1 small file
  • Steel wire - Quantity TBD

Ski repairs

  • G3 TARGA/TARGA Ascent backcountry kit
    • TBD
  • Dynafit parts
    • TBD
  • 1 spare ski pole
  • 1 spare ski basket
  • Black Diamond Skin Globstopper (Champagne)
  • G3/BD Skin repair kit
    • Tails
    • Loops

Mountaineering repairs

  • Cords - Length, type and quantity TBD

Clothing repairs

  • Gore-Tex patches (Champagne)
  • 1 pair of Sunglasses
  • 1 sewing kit - TBD

Tent repairs

  • 2 spare tent pole segment (1 for each tent)
  • 1 tube (60 ml) of Seam Grip Seam Sure Seam Sealer
  • 2 tent pole sleeves

Sleeping repairs

  • Therm-A-Rest Patch kit - For Prolites
  • 1 spare Therm-A-Rest Valve.

Cooking repairs

  • 1 MSR WhisperLite Expedition Service kit
  • 1 MSR XGK EX Expedition Service kit
  • 1 MSR Stove Annual Maintenance kit

Food

Requirements

Road Trip (Vancouver -> Denali)

  • X Breakfasts
  • X Lunches
  • X Dinners

Alpine (Denali)

  • X Breakfasts
  • X Lunches
  • X Dinners

Road Trip (Denali -> Vancouver)

  • X Breakfasts
  • X Lunches
  • X Dinners

Geoff

Average daily consumption

  • XXXg Breakfast
  • XXXg Lunch
  • XXXg Dinner
  • XXg Chocolate
  • XXg Protein Goo

Alpine Breakfasts'

  • TBD

Alpine Lunches

  • TBD

Alpine Dinners

  • TBD

Duncan

Average daily consumption

  • XXXg Breakfast
  • XXXg Lunch
  • XXXg Dinner
  • XXg Chocolate
  • XXg Protein Goo

Alpine Breakfasts'

  • TBD

Alpine Lunches

  • TBD

Alpine Dinners

  • TBD

Laura

Average daily consumption

  • XXXg Breakfast
  • XXXg Lunch
  • XXXg Dinner
  • XXg Chocolate
  • XXg Protein Goo

Alpine Breakfasts'

  • TBD

Alpine Lunches

  • TBD

Alpine Dinners

  • TBD

Champagne

Average daily consumption

  • XXXg Breakfast
  • XXXg Lunch
  • XXXg Dinner
  • XXg Chocolate
  • XXg Protein Goo

Alpine Breakfasts'

  • TBD

Alpine Lunches

  • TBD

Alpine Dinners

  • TBD

UBC Human Kinetics Research

High Altitude Acute Mountain Sickness Genetic Susceptibility

  • Duncan, Jeff and Champagne have participated in an ongoing AMS susceptibility study at UBC.
  • The researchers are interested in assisting the team with medical backup in return to doing some medical during the trip.
  • Extremely useful for grant applications.
    • Meeting will be either the 6th, 13th or 20th of January 2011 at 10am in the Wesbrook building

Grants/fund raisers

MEC - Expedition Support

  • Deadlines:
    • February 1st
    • May 1st
  • Champagne will look into it.

ACC - Jen Higgins Memorial Fund

  • Laura will look into it.

Fund raisers

  • Jeff & Duncan will look into it.
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