Smith Rock

Introduction

Smith Rock State Park is the premier rockclimbing destination in Central Oregon and is famous worldwide as an early birth place of bolted sport climbing in North America. Climbing is on two primary volcanic rock types. The welded tuff of the main formations provides knobby and pocketed face and irregular crack climbs at all angles and all difficulties. The basalt columns of the upper and lower gorges provide steep splitter cracks and delicate bolted face climbs.

Fall and Spring are prime seasons, winter can be cold and snowy but manageable, summer is formidably hot.

Top-ropeable climbs are limited in number as most formations are more than 1/2 rope length high. However there are numerous quality bolted and traditionally protected climbs at easy grades for the beginner lead climber.

Driving Directions

Follow I5/405 south through seattle and take the secret exit north of Portland, following signs to HWY26. Head southeast on HWY 26 through some small towns (Sandy, Brigthwood, Government Camp). Climb over the west flank of Mt. Hood into the central desert and the town of Madras. Take HWY97 from Madras to the small town of Terrebonne.

Camping

Camp at Skull Hollow/The Grasslands for free. There are pit toilets but few other amenities. There are fire-pits for campfires. No picnic tables or seats, so bring your own lawnchairs etc. There is no water supply at the campground so bring your own jugs to fill from taps in town or at the climbing area.

Climbing

The climbing area is almost entirely contained within Smith Rock State Park. There is a day-use parking fee at the park ($5 per car?) which can only be paid by cash.