Archive:2009 Brian Waddington hut renovations
Projects
Re"wolverine-proof" the basement
Stuff to buy
- Chicken wire
- hammer-in staples
Tools
- hammer
- pliers
- something to cut wire
- gloves(?)
Add screens
Christian has screens in apartment.
Costs
- $100 screens
- something to attach
Stuff to buy
Something to attach them
Tools
Adult size metal hacksaw up there already. Screwdriver?
Add curtains
Line will pre-make curtains...
The 7 windows are:
- (4) 29 1/2 x 41 1/2
- (2) 29 1/2 x 31 1/2
- (1) 25 1/2 x 25 1/2 (diamond)
Stuff to buy
Curtains? Tea hooks 4x7 = 28
Double pane the windows
Mostly done. Possibly move some outside?
Need a few more clips. Clips and screws are up there. Needs caulking.
Costs
$410 more or less
Stuff to buy
- caulking
Tools
- caulking gun
- screwdriver
Fix the roof
Stuff to buy
- Al sheeting
- expanding foam
- roofing screws
- asphalt caulking
Tools
- caulking gun
- brace n bit
- tin snips
Roof gear
- harness
- rope(s)
- aider
- knee pads
- foamy
- biners
- prussiks
Costs
$250
Kill the mildew
Basically done
Costs
Included in $410, $50
Finish the beams
Enough tong oil up there.
Tools
- pile of rags
- brushes
Paint the inside walls
According to my measurements the circumference of the hut is ~26m, the first floor is 3m tall with 1.8m of that non-wainscoting, and the "roof/wall" upstairs is 3.6m. This makes the following paintable areas:
Ground floor: 26x1.8=46.8 m^2 (wall above wainscoting, includes some windows and cupboards) 26x1.2= 31.2 m^2 (wainscoting surface area, if we decide to paint it, includes some cupboards)
Upstairs: 26x3.6=93.6 m^2 (it's probably a fair amount less, since this gives the end walls more area than they deserve - but we're approximating)
Trim/cupboards(?): ~5 m^2
Notes
Probably need:
- paint or stain
- rollers etc.
Stuff to buy
Exterior stain.
Tools
- Rollers
- Brushes
- Roller trays
- metal edge protector
- scraper
Paint the unpainted bench/table
Done. Can use another coat, to use up paint up there.
Tools
- Brushes
Move the outhouse
Notes
The outhouse is getting full. Renovation includes (1) deciding if it is full yet, and if so, (2) looking for a new site that will not drain into the lake but is still close enough to be used, (3) digging a really big hole that will last for years but hopefully not hit water. (4) Carefully taking apart the outhouse and carrying the pieces to the new site (5) Assembling the outhouse (6) We are done, but we should carry out any debris from previous failed outhouse attempts. None of this should be costly. Re-painting is probably not a priority.
Costs
None of the above will require spending money, but we need about 4 people x 1 day.
Required Tools
Screwdriver, hammer, dirt digging shovels.
Refinish the floor
More tong oil?
Maybe leave it for next time.
Notes
Refinishing the floor is a major task. Normally you would use a huge power sander to remove the old finish and flatten the floor. This will be extremely difficult and labour intensive using only hand tools.
At least two coats of finish will be needed, with 12 hours or so to dry between coats (for floors, the finish has to dry enough that you can walk on it lightly while applying the next coat). After completion, there should probably be no heavy use for a week. No one can be in the hut doing any other work while the floor is drying. Probably no one will want to sleep inside either.
Equipment / supplies needed:
- sanding implements - normally power sanders are used for refinishing floors. For a manual approach, several half sheet (or larger) sanding blocks will be needed so multiple people can work at the same time.
- Dust removal - a vaccum cleaner would be ideal, but it we are less picky we can sweep up the dust.
- Finish
Costs
$150 for finish - urethane or similar. Sand paper - $100 (in the case of manual sanding, expensive fancy sandpaper will cut the manual effort by about half).
Add extra rails to honeymoon suite
Notes
Ideally these would be done well if we do them at all, ie. vaguely matching wood, non-flimsy attachment/construction (otherwise they're probably worse than nothing)
Costs
$100
Increase ventilation
Maybe remove loovers? Some pliers and some thought for next time. Maybe plug old hole...
Tools
pliers
Bridge/Trail around lake
Notes
Probably need:
- gabian cages
- expanded metal for bridge deck
- miscellaneous hardware, bolts etc.
- signage to tell people to stay on the trail
Costs
$200
Haul out accumulated Junk
Notes
We may make several trips from the cars to the Hut bringing in tools, materials, food, beer, etc, so on the way out we might haul some of the accumulated junk. Some of the things we might consider hauling out if we have enough personnel, include
- empty propane tank
- several empty kerosene cans
- several empty garbage cans modified for composting poop
- the two lead-acid batteries if they are indeed beyond help.
- abandoned spondonicles, dishes, etc
- construction debris if it is known to be useless.
- empty paint tins
- two kerosene heaters
- broken Coleman stoves
Costs
If we haul in a couple cans of white gas, this will help with drying out the hut before painting it. $25
- beer
- food
Notes
The vent holes are 5" in diameter.
Other measurements, while I'm looking at this ready-to-be-lost piece of paper:
Windows could be plexiglassed on the inside fairly easily. Requires: 4x 29.5" x 41.5" 2x 29.5" x 31.5" 1x 25.5" x 25.5" And some clips around the outside (bathroom mirror style). Note that the glass can't much bigger, otherwise it will interfere with the latches. Can't be much smaller either. The plexiglass will be right on frame/retainer interface (ie - the same size as the glass), so clips with some length would be good so they are further from the edge (reduce chance of splitting). Pre-drill the holes.
Measured from the inside, accurate enough to figure out how much paint we need:
- Main Floor:
Length of hut - 7.3m Width of hut - 3.9m Length of vestibule - 1.8m Height above wainscoting - 1.8m Ceiling height - 3m
Beams are 24" around (8" against wall or 6" free standing): 10x 3m 20x 1.2m 20x 3.9m
Unpainted table - 3'x6' 2x Unpainted benches - 1'x5'
- Loft:
Length of hut - 7.3m Width of hut - 3.9m Length of 'roof/wall' - 3.6m Length of vestibule - 2.2m (yes longer than downstairs - it's not as high and the roof slopes) Length of 'roof/wall' in vestibule - 2.3m
Beams are 24" around 8x 3.6m 20x 1.5m
Other thoughts:
More mallion and chain for lanterns
trim for messy paint jobs?
paint the ladders?
floor appears to be sealed already - should we do it again?
outside paint seems to be alright - should we do it again?
railing for upstairs traverse to honeymoon suite? (2x1.6m posts, 2x1.6m rails)
plexiglass on inside better - glass absorbs UV without turning opaque.
The "Brian Waddington Hut" wood sign is still only half complete. A
chisel could fix this quickly.
Vents suck, and only sort-of open. Maybe a simple tube, pointing
down, that cannot be closed, would be good. Or supply a cap which can
be taken on/off - this would be less confusing than the 'rotate 180
degrees and wonder whether it was open or closed to start with' vents
we have now. Plastic probably gathers less condensation than metal.
Roof doesn't appear to be leaking enough to see it inside anymore,
probably could still use some repair.
When deciding how much to do, we need to keep in mind whether is it a helicopter job or a carry in job. In my mind (and probably the club's budget this summer) it is a carry-in job. We can still make the required big improvements carry-in style, but maybe won't have enough man-power to carry enough paint for both inside and outside. I guess we'll see. Probably a good way to do it would be to conscript some porters for a work weekend and a small number of people to stick around for a few extra days.
Also, the hut seemed plenty warm with just the two catalytic heaters and 11 people (there were some french people up there too. The big catalytic is harder to light (you're supposed to use some alcohol-based priming fluid, which we did not have). Not Brew Hut warm, but I had to unzip my sleeping bag.