Smith Rock

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Smith Rock

Introduction

Smith Rock State Park is the premier rockclimbing destination in Central Oregon and is famous worldwide as an early birth place of bolted sport climbing in North America. Climbing is on two primary volcanic rock types. The welded tuff of the main formations provides knobby and pocketed face and irregular crack climbs at all angles and all difficulties. The basalt columns of the upper and lower gorges provide steep splitter cracks and delicate bolted face climbs.

Fall and Spring are prime seasons, winter can be cold and snowy but manageable, summer is formidably hot.

Top-ropeable climbs are limited in number as most formations are more than 1/2 rope length high. However there are numerous quality bolted and traditionally protected climbs at easy grades for the beginner lead climber.

Directions

Directions from Vancouver to Smith Rock

Follow I5/405 south through seattle and take the secret exit north of Portland, following signs to HWY 26. Head southeast on HWY 26 through some small towns (Sandy, Brigthwood, Government Camp). Climb over the west flank of Mt. Hood into the central desert and the town of Madras. Take HWY 97 from Madras to the small town of Terrebonne. Turn East off HWY 97 at NE Smith Rock Way, then head to one of the campgrounds. The entire drive from Vancouver takes about 10 hours.

Camping

Camp at Skull Hollow/The Grasslands for free. There are pit toilets but few other amenities. There are fire-pits for campfires. No picnic tables or seats, so bring your own lawnchairs etc. There is no water supply at the campground so bring your own jugs to fill from taps in town or at the climbing area. This camping area is about a 10 minute drive from the climbing area.

There is also a walk-in campground right in Smith Rock park (right next to the day-use parking). Although this costs a few bucks, you won't have to do a daily commute to the crags. After you factor in the day-use fee you would have to pay if you camped elsewhere, gas, and wear-and-tear on your car it's probably the cheaper alternative.

Food

Climbing

The climbing area is almost entirely contained within Smith Rock State Park. There is a day-use parking fee at the park ($3US per car) which can only be paid by cash.

What to bring

Bring American money and a passport. You will get hosed on the exchange rate if you try and use a debit card. Bring your climbing gear, camping gear (reasonably warm), and a guide book (at least a photo copy). Should talk around to share tents and stoves.

Dates

Traditionally, there is a road trip to Smith Rock on the Rememberance Day long weekend in early November. See the trip agenda for more details.

Smith Rock Trip 2006

Nov. 10-13, 2006 (Remembrance Day Weekend)

Pre-Trip Meeting

VOC Clubroom on Tuesday, November 7th, 2006 @ 7pm

Come if: you are carless, you are a driver with space in your car, you need directions on how to get there or you have questions/need to find a partner.

Sign Up

Note: For those whom are going biking only, please add (B) beside your name.

    1. Kaja
    2. Duncan
    3. Champagne
    4. Fuller
    5. Jordan T
    6. Pete Hudson
    7. Jowen Yeo
    8. Charlotte Caunt
    9. Natalie Stafl
    10. Micheal Blicker
    11. Laura Catton
    12. Bob Lai
    13. Fiona Campbell
    14. Christian Sampaleanu
    15. Richard So
    16. Alice Leppitt
    17. Mike Young
    18. Ben Singleton-Polster
    19. Evan Morris
    20. Greta Raymant
    1. Matthew Breakey
    2. AJ Allan
    3. Oker (B, but might bring top rope setup)
    4. Sophie Silver
    5. Nick Chng
    6. Afton Halloran
    7. Megan McLaughlin (B, but will bring climbing gear)
    8. Melissa Hollis
    9. Charissa Pinnell
    10. Agathe Demarais (B ?)
    11. Seth Adams
    12. Cynthia Thomson
    13. Lara Thompson
    14. Elizabeth Young
    15. Jamie Hogan
    16. Marcin Mirski
    17. Eric von Lieres
    18. Katharina Laeufer
    19. Greg Dennis
    20. Irena Kuca
    1. Alex Khramov (B?)
    2. Stephen Lerch
    3. Meghan Trepanier
    4. Ignacio Rozada
    5. Michael Hägler
    6. ysaline rochat
    7. Samantha Lau (B)
    8. Alix MacKay
    9. Aurore Ponvienne
    10. Laure Chastel
    11. Matthew Baker
    12. Andrew Silversides
    13. Stephanie Schmitt
    14. Holger Fese
    15. Matt Frey
    16. Ian Garber



Cars

If you have space in your car, please post the spots. Passengers pay for gas. If you have a rope and/or rack, please indicate so that we can try and even out people with gear into cars with less gear (see below).

Note: Since it seems that we're going to have a cycling contingency, those whom have a bike rack (or willing to lend one) please say so beside your car.

  • Seth Adams (4-5 spots) [rope,rack,tent,stove]{Friday afternoon - Tuesday night} (can take up to 2 bikes on roof) very willing to be a passenger, but my car is available if needed. Perhaps those willing to blow off Tuesday should ride with me.
  1. Seth
  2. Jowen (2 person tent, draws, rope)
  3. Natalie Stafl
  4. Megan McLaughlin (and my bike.)
  • Kaja's car (4 spaces) [2 ropes, draws & full trad rack] {friday afternoon-monday night}:
  1. Kaja
  2. Duncan
  3. Champagne (Oh yes, Duncan!)
  4. Fuller (rope, quickdraws)
  • Tammage (Tentatively Thursday Evening - Monday Night)(trad rack..need new rope) (4 spaces)
  1. Ben Singleton-POlster
  2. Afton (Will I fit?)(course you will!)(Are you sure?) (course I'm sure!)
  3. Charlie Caunt
  4. Irena Kuca (4 spaces including the driver?)(indeed, it has been done)
  • Pete's Sweet Jacked up Truck (5 spaces) {Leaving Friday afternoon, back the following thursday but can drop people off at the train station in Portland for the AmTrack back to Vancouver on Tuesday night.}:
  1. Pete (2 ropes, full trad rack)
  2. Kristall(Maybe?)
  3. Tom Furst
  4. Alix MacKay (maybe)
  5. Pawel Mirski (biners, sling, rope?, chalk:P, le biciclet?)
  • Bob Lai (5 spots){Friday afternoon - Monday ?)
  1. Bob
  2. Laura
  3. Evan (hopefully a rope by then!!)
  4. Greta
  5. AJ Allan
  • Fiona Campbell (Thursday afternoon - Monday evening)
  1. Fiona (Rope, draws, 1/2 Trad Rack)
  2. Mike Young (Rope, draws, 1/2 Trad Rack, Guide book, Chain Saw)
  3. Charissa Pinnell (Rope, draws)
  • Lara Thompson (3 spots, not much room for gear!)[rope,small rack,tent,camp stove](Friday afternoon - Monday evening)
  1. Alice Leppitt
  2. Sophie Silver
  3. Melissa Hollis
  • Matthew Breakey (4) [rope,rack]{Friday afternoon - Monday}
  1. Angela #1
  2. Greg Dennis(2 person tent, stove, Brand New Draws!)
  3. Marcin (rope, some biners and slings)
  4. Eric von Lieres (rope, quickdraws)
  • Alex Khramov (4-5 but not with, like, five ropes each) {Friday sometime - Monday evening}. Also very willing to be passenger, but will drive if necessity arises. Can middleman-lend bikerack.
  1. Alex
  2. Oker
  3. Jamie Hogan
  4. Agathe Demarais
  5. Liz Young (since it appears Oker isn't coming anymore...)
  • Stephen Lerch (3 spots, 1 rope, sport gear and one canopy [canopy is full of sleepers]) I can carry extra gear for people so call me.
  1. Me
  2. Meghan Trepanier
  3. Christian S.

Carless People

  • People in need of a ride.
  1. Mike Blicker (Friday afternoon - Mon evening) Rack,Stove
  2. Michael Hägler (Friday - Monday evening)
  3. Cynthia Thomson (Fri-Mon late) Okay...I may drive... just can't commit until closer to date
  4. Elizabeth Young (Friday - Monday)
  5. Ysaline Rochat (Friday-Monday)
  6. Samantha Lau (Friday- Monday)
  7. Alix MacKay (Friday-Monday) tent, stove
  8. Aurore Ponvienne (Friday - Monday or Tuesday) tent
  9. Laure Chastel (Friday-Monday or Tuesday)
  10. Matthew Baker (Friday-Monday)Rack sport, rope, stove, tent
  11. Andrew Silversides (Friday - Monday)
  12. Stephanie Schmitt (Friday-Monday) rope, sport rack
  13. Katharina Laeufer (Friday-Monday) tent, stove
  14. Holger Feser (Friday-Monday), rope
  15. Ignacio Rozada (Friday-Monday)
  16. Matt Frey (Friday afternoon..5ish til Monday late.. may drive... keep you posted)

http://www.smithrock.com/

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