Archive:Denali 2011

Team Details

Team VOC Hot Faff

• Geoffrey Martin
• Michael Duncan
• Christian Champagne
• Laura Morrison

Emergency Contact Info

Michael Duncan

Sylvia Duncan

Relationship: mother

Phone: (w) 604-530-1311 (h) 604-533-5060 (c) 604-341-5862

Address: 3926 196th St, Langley, B.C. V3A 6G1

Christian Champagne

Susan Champagne

Relationship: mother

Phone:

• Work: 819-681-5535
• Home: 819-425-7658
• Cell: 819-429-????

Address: 970 rue Estelle, Mont-Tremblant, QC, J8E 2N9

To Do List

Mt Denali National Park Registration - Dec.

• Due minimum of 60 days before the climb (April 9^th, 2011)
• Mountaineering Fee: $200/person
• Park Fee: $10
• Deposit Upon Registration: $25
• Online and hard copy forms available, must be completed together.

Info here

Flights - Dec.

• K2 Aviation by January 31^st, 2011 - $460/person ($560 otherwise)
  • $100 group deposit upon reservation.

Vehicle - Dec

• Geoff should be able to borrow his family's Ford Windstar minivan. We can expect it to use about $800 worth of fuel on the trip. Lots of room, ski rack, well maintained, and safe and easy to drive.
• Duncan will meeting the rest of the team in Anchorage, AK after flying in from Quebec City, QC on June 8^th, 2011

Medical Needs - New Year

• Everyone should have a physical done
• Need up to date tetanus shot
• Can be referred to the Vancouver High Altitude Medicine Clinic if it's helpful

This consultation is not covered by the BC medical service plan (MSP) unless your physician faxes a referral letter to f-604.822.9058.

• Need certain prescription drugs
  • Champagne - will email Kristen for her remaining drugs from her 2010 Mt Logan attempt.

Food Planning - New Year

• Figure out each persons daily needs
• Design menus
• Menu needs food for easy days, hard days, quick days, and slow days
• Menu should have variety and include meals satisfying different needs based on the kind of day
• Divide dinner menus amongst ourselves giving each person responsibility over several meals for everyone
• Food should be made from scratch and dried for maximum deliciousness
• Food Allergies?
  • Laura: none
  • Champagne: none
  • Duncan: none
  • Jeff: milk products (especially cheese)

Gear

Climbing/Mountaineering

• Ice Axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.
• Crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
• Climbing helmet
• Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
• Alpine Climbing Harness
• Carabiners – locking and non-locking, D-shaped and ovals
• Pulley – for crevasse rescue and rigging (little, light, cheap)
• Picket(s)
• Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
• Webbing
• Ascender – One right or left-handed. May be optional, there is a section of fixed ropes we could use at the headwall.
• Touring Skis
• Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
• Climbing Skins
• Avalanche Safety Gear: Beacon, Shovel and Probe

Footwear

• Ski Boots
• Fully Insulated Overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots
• Gaiters – for lower on the mountain
• Heavyweight Socks – a few pairs
• Liner Socks – a few pairs
• Vapour Barrier Socks
• Camp Booties

Technical Clothing

• Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear - tops bottoms, synthetic or wool. Good for hot days lower on the glacier, or for layering with the heavyweight on the upper mountain
• Heavyweight Long Underwear – tops and bottoms, synthetic or wool
• Soft Shell Jacket – midweight or heavyweight
• Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight
• Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
• Hard Shell Pants – waterproof, breathable or not
• Down Jacket or Parka – fit over insulation layers
• Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers

Headwear

• Toque – should cover ears
• Balaclavas – 1 lightweight, 1 heavyweight to layer
• Bandanas, Buff, NeckGaiter, Hat, Nose Guard, etc – whatever you like to wear
• Glacier Glasses – 100% UVA and UVB, w/ side covers
• Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB

Handwear

• Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
• Expedition Weight Gloves – with medium or heavy weight soft shell liner
• Expedition Weight Mitts – for when gloves aren’t good enough
• Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring

Personal Equipment

• Expedition Backpack (+80L)
• Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled
• Expedition Sleeping Bag – -20*C rating or better
• Compression Stuff Sacks
• Sleeping Pad – Closed cell foam or inflatable (or both)
• Eating Gear – bowl and spoon/spork
• Sunscreen – strong SPF, enough for 3 weeks, Lipscreen too
• Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
• Water Bottle Parka – insulated to prevent freezing
• Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it
• Pee Funnel – if you’re a girl (ie: Freshette)
• Multitool with knife – tough, small, functional, and simple
• Toiletry Bag – the basics: toothpaste, toothbrush, baby wipes, 3 weeks of toilet paper
• Hand Sanitizer – or something similar
• Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – just in case…
• Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses
• Camera gear – light and simple, we probably don’t all need it
• Books – so we don’t go insane
• iPod – so we don’t go insane, only works if we can charge them
• Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic

Travelling

• Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
• Backpack or small duffel – for travelling or to store personal stuff in Talkeetna while climbing

First Aid

• Personal First-Aid Kit – Aspirin, band-aids, moleskin, etc…
• Drugs, Acetazolamide, Dexamethasone, etc…

Group

• Expedition Tents – 4 season expedition tents, probably 2
  • Champagne - MWH Trango 2
• Sleds – may come free with glacier flight
  • Champagne + Laura: talked to Pete Hudson and has two spare sleds we can use.
• Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
• Rope – probably 1 half, maybe 2
  • Champagne: 30m Beal Rando 8mm twin rope (Dry treated)
  • Jeff: 60m 8mm rope
• Wands
• Stoves – 2 or 3, white gas,interchangeable, must work in cold, wind, high altitude (ie: WhisperLite, SimmerLite, etc)
  • Champagne: MSR XGK stove
  • Jeff: MSR WhisperLite stove
• Cooking Gear – probably just pots
• Food – for 3 weeks plus, variation, mix of enjoyable, efficient, fun, etc; should be dried and lightweight
• Group First Aid Kit – larger, more complete
• SPOT (Champagne)
  • Need to look into getting GEOS coverage.
• GPS
• Radios – each person should have one
• Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
• Entertainment – cards, chess, checkers…etc; maybe a solar charger for iPods…

Food

TBD

UBC Human Kinetics Research

High Altitude Acute Mountain Sickness Genetic Susceptibility

• Duncan, Jeff and Champagne have participated in an ongoing AMS susceptibility study at UBC.
• The researchers are interested in assisting the team with medical backup in return to doing some medical during the trip.
• Will need to organize a meeting between both parties to see if we can make it happen.
  • Champagne will email them.
• Extremely useful for grant applications.

Grants/fund raisers

MEC

• Champagne will look into it.

ACC - Jen Higgins Memorial Fund

• Laura will look into it.

Fund raisers

• Jeff & Duncan will look into it.